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[TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?

Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 14:16:15 -0700
I just saw something I missed:  if the ignition light is on with the ignition 
off, you have wired something wrong.  With the ignition off, the live wire is 
the brown-blue which runs to the ignition switch - all the white wires should 
be dead.  Check your wiring and the switch itself.
 
Andew
 
--------- Original Message --------- Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red 
light, huh?
From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm
To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" <auprichard at uprichard.net>, "'Triumphs 
List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>

  
 
 From: auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net> 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM
 To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>; 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at 
autox.team.net>
 Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
 
  1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild.  It is probably your voltage 
regulator, but could be the generator.
 [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box&hellip;
 
https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4
  
 But with the ignition switch set to off????  I would expect no power to be 
flowing in the system?!?!?!?
 
 
2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function 
isn't set up (red light on).  Fix the charging system, then address the 
ammeter.  If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
 [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight's job.    The 
question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight, 
not a large value
 
 
3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and 
the slave:  worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
 [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave 
rebuild&hellip;.
 
 
4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold 
engine.
 [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg.  Sooo good??? ?
 

 
Andrew Uprichard
 
Jackson, Michigan
 

 
 --------- Original Message ---------
  Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
 From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
 Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
 To: "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
  Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this 
is going to last a while ).  Need to tackle a few more things:
 
  Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on 
all the time????  I do need to switch over the amp gauge.  While running, it is 
slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ).  This a good sign? Or should there 
be more charging?    While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the 
pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear.  I am assuming the 
slave is not responding?  There is fluif in the can ?  ( still love that word ) 
The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi.  Does this 
collective like that? 

 
 David
 
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