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All good solid advice.
The fulcrum pin is the inside upper and lower a-arm pivots. The upper pin is
replaceable, but the lower isn't really. Are you sure that you have the parts
terminology correct? What car is this?
The upper pin replacement wouldn't necessarily include removable of the tie rod
end.
Dave H.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Drews" <tony@tonydrews.com>
To: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, "Harold Sawatsky" <hsawatsk@sasktel.net>,
triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 10:44:00 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3
+1 on that style of ball joint separator - seems to be much nicer to
the ball joint, especially if I'm taking it apart but don't plan to
replace the ball joint.
Tony Drews
At 09:41 AM 1/22/2016, Randall wrote:
> > First, thanks for all the input I received before Xmas. The
> > project this weekend is to remove the tie rod as one of the
> > fulcrum pins is completely destroyed
>
>A very common problem in my experience. You might want to consider
>upgrading to the Delrin/SS joints as sold by ARE & TRF. They
>will last much longer.
>
> > Also, should we replace any other bushings while we are
> > doing this? It does look like most other components are in
> > good condition.
>
>The inner A-arm bushings are another common problem, IMO;
>particularly the upper ones. For the other joints, pry and wiggle against
>them looking for any movement. In general, if you can see them move
>at all in ways they are not supposed to, the joint should be
>replaced.
>
>Also look for any play in the steering box. If you see any, my
>suggestion is to rebuild it rather than trying to adjust the screw
>on the top. It's to compensate for manufacturing tolerances, not wear IMO.
>
> > Trying to find some documentation or advice as to the best
> > way to proceed and do I need any specialty tools.
>
>This style of tool seems to work the best for me
>http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
>
>
>Never had much luck with the "pickle fork" style, especially on
>those fulcrum pins (aka silentblocs).
>
>Randall
>
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">All good solid advice. </div><di=
v aria-label=3D"Compose body">The fulcrum pin is the inside upper and lower=
a-arm pivots. The upper pin is replaceable, but the lower isn't real=
ly. Are you sure that you have the parts terminology correct? W=
hat car is this?</div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">The upper pin replac=
ement wouldn't necessarily include removable of the tie rod end.</div><div =
aria-label=3D"Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">Dave=
H.</div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body"></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=
=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;fo=
nt-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;" data-mce-style=3D"col=
or: #000; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; f=
ont-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>From: </b>"Ton=
y Drews" <tony@tonydrews.com><br><b>To: </b>"Randall" <TR3driver@c=
a.rr.com>, "Harold Sawatsky" <hsawatsk@sasktel.net>, triumphs@auto=
x.team.net<br><b>Sent: </b>Friday, January 22, 2016 10:44:00 AM<br><b>Subje=
ct: </b>Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3<br><div><br></div>+1 on that style =
of ball joint separator - seems to be much nicer to <br>the ball joint, esp=
ecially if I'm taking it apart but don't plan to <br>replace the ball joint=
.<br><div><br></div>Tony Drews<br><div><br></div>At 09:41 AM 1/22/2016, Ran=
dall wrote:<br><div><br></div>> > First, thanks for all the input I r=
eceived before Xmas. The<br>> > project this weekend is to remove the=
tie rod as one of the<br>> > fulcrum pins is completely destroyed<br=
>><br>>A very common problem in my experience. You might want t=
o consider <br>>upgrading to the Delrin/SS joints as sold by ARE & T=
RF. They<br>>will last much longer.<br>><br>> > Also, sho=
uld we replace any other bushings while we are<br>> > doing this? It =
does look like most other components are in<br>> > good condition.<br=
>><br>>The inner A-arm bushings are another common problem, IMO; <br>=
>particularly the upper ones. For the other joints, pry and wiggle=
against<br>>them looking for any movement. In general, if you can=
see them move <br>>at all in ways they are not supposed to, the joint s=
hould be<br>>replaced.<br>><br>>Also look for any play in the stee=
ring box. If you see any, my <br>>suggestion is to rebuild it rath=
er than trying to adjust the screw<br>>on the top. It's to compens=
ate for manufacturing tolerances, not wear IMO.<br>><br>> > Trying=
to find some documentation or advice as to the best<br>> > way to pr=
oceed and do I need any specialty tools.<br>><br>>This style of tool =
seems to work the best for me<br>>http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quart=
er-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html<br>><br>>Never had muc=
h luck with the "pickle fork" style, especially on <br>>those fulcrum pi=
ns (aka silentblocs).<br>><br>>Randall<br>><br>><br>>** triu=
mphs@autox.team.net **<br>><br>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.ht=
ml<br>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>>Forums: http://www.te=
am.net/forums<br>>Unsubscribe/Manage: <br>>http://autox.team.net/mail=
man/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com<br><div><br></div><br><div><br></di=
v>** triumphs@autox.team.net **<br><div><br></div>Donate: http://www.team.n=
et/donate.html<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http://ww=
w.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/opti=
ons/triumphs/dlhogye@comcast.net<br></div><div><br></div></div></body></htm=
l>
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