Hi List. With all the talk about aluminum radiators, one issue was
missed. With the exception of TR7 & TR8, all the cars from Spit through
TR6 have a radiator that is a "solid" mount. Aluminum, by nature, can
not stand any twisting, flexing or "racking". All these cars are
body/frame construction. Frames twist and flex and since radiator is
hard mounted, so does the radiator. Another, and we feel better, choice
is a modern re-core. Our radiator shop use a MaxCool core. Large
diameter, oval shaped fins with lots of surface for heat dissipation. Ted
On 10/23/2013 8:58 PM, David Ljung Madison wrote:
> My TR3A is finally coming back together. I have it at Greg Solow's
> Engine Room in Santa Cruz (I believe he did TeriAnn's Triumph).
>
> They are saying that the radiator doesn't have lots of flow and
> are recommending switching to an aluminum radiator. Somewhere
> in storage I have a stock radiator in good shape that has the crank
> hole (my current one doesn't). I checked on ebay and the
> prices of aluminum radiators vary massively - from $250 to $700.
> Greg can get one that is good quality for ~$700.
>
> So my options:
>
> 1) Use the current radiator, and don't go on the race track
> 2) Use the storage radiator so I have the starter crank hole again,
> which is amusing and can come in handy.
> 3) Buy the $250 aluminum on ebay
> 4) Buy the $700 aluminum via Greg
>
> I know that if I use the radiator with the starter hole that
> I lose something like 5% of my cooling, though the radiator
> is probably cleaner than the original, so it's probably about
> the same.
>
>
> Does anyone kynow how to tell the difference between the
> radiators on ebay? Anyone buy one of these $250 aluminum radiators?
>
> And any thoughts on the difference between aluminum and stock?
>
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>
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>
--
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx@bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022
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