The wiring diagram looks right.
A couple of quick questions: Can you hear the relays activate/deactivate
when you operate the switch? If the relays are not working make sure you have
12 volts across the windings of the relays. (Just in case you didn't
figure this out the little circles with the + signs are ground connections. It
took me a few seconds to figure that out) Also make sure the relays are
wired up correctly. If you swapped the winding and contact connections either
nothing will happen or you will pop fuses. Also make sure the headlights
themselves are grounded.
Does the high beam indicator on the dash work?
If you have a volt meter measure the light blue and/or purple wires where
they connect to the relays. Put the other meter lead to ground. Do you get
12 volts there?
Lastly (or maybe firstly), make sure the dipper switch is functional.
Nothing will work it that is shot.
Dave
In a message dated 5/27/2013 8:48:36 PM Central Daylight Time,
cfmtr3a@verizon.net writes:
>
> The project is moving along.. ran into a 'stumper' this afternoon.
>
>
>
> See
> http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TR3AwiringCM_16LampCircuitS
> M
> ALL.png.html (email if problems viewing it)
>
>
>
> I have all wired as in the link - but nothing happens when I flip the
> switch.
>
> Checked the fuses - ok
>
> Checked juice from the switch - ok
>
> Checked the live wire going into the fuse block - ok
>
>
>
> But no lights.
>
>
>
> Wires feed into standard H/L pigtail.
>
> Grounded at Horn Tower connection. Just in case - put a jumper from
> ground
> lead directly to battery - no difference.
>
>
>
> Anything wrong with my schematic?
>
>
>
> Next step is to disconnect at relays and bypass - but I can't believe that
> both relays are bad.
>
>
>
> Any insight is appreciated..
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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