> then also double up the
> brown/ white wire between the control box to ammeter and
> then from ammeter to solenoid.
I'm not positive a TR4 would be the same; but on the TR3 the heavy brown
wires are actually thicker than the equivalent wires on my Chevy with a
factory 85-amp alternator. Therefore I can't see any need to double-up on
them. And as I said, I ran for 20 years that way with no indication that
the wires were even getting warm.
Here is a photo of the shunt (taken after the car was wrecked in 2005):
http://goo.gl/Ncp5V
I did tidy up a bit when installing the powder-coated instrument panel
(hence the heat shrink on the wires), but the brown wires at the top of that
shot are the original 1958 wiring harness, still in good condition. (The
plastic fuse holder is the supply line to the OD)
However, I do advocate hooking up the "sense" wire (if your alternator uses
one) to the starter solenoid. That allows the voltage regulator to
compensate for any voltage drop through the wiring (and ammeter), which will
help recharge the battery quicker.
When I originally made this modification (on a previous TR3A), I drove about
a mile each way to work in the snow. Recharging the battery in that short
trip, with headlights, heater and wipers all running, was a priority. I
never had a dead battery again, and in fact used that car to help start many
newer cars on cold mornings!
-- Randall
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