Adrian,
> I'm thinking I have to first adjust the back brakes,
> individually, so the wheels spin freely but are locked solid
> with foot brake applied.
In case it's not obvious yet, that's not good enough. The design is such
that the adjuster can be backed off all the way, but the brakes will still
lock with the foot brake applied.
Here's what the factory workshop manual has to say :
"Release the handbrake and jack up the car.
Turn the square end of the adjuster on the
outside of each rear brake backplate in a
clockwise direction until a resistance is
felt, then slacken back two clicks, when the
drum should rotate freely.
Immediately after fitting replacement shoes
it is advisable to slacken one further click
to allow for possible lining expansion,
reverting to normal adjustment afterwards."
> Then take up any slack in the
> handbrake cable. Have I got that right?
Again the workshop manual :
"From the compensating linkage to the brake
levers mounted on the wheel cylinders are
transverse cables which are of a set length
when leaving the works.
They are however
adjustable at their inner ends and should
these have been tampered with it is necessary
to check the following:
The cable assembled to the right-hand
cylinder lever is 12.97" +/- .06" between
centres.
The left-hand is 26.85" +/- .06", this gives
the correct angle of the compensator lever
as 17 degrees. Only when a complete overhaul
is necessary should the handbrake cables
require resetting.
To carry out this operation, the brake
shoes should be locked up in the brake
drums with the handbrake in the "off"
position. Any slackness that is in the cable
from compensator to handbrake lever should
be removed at the handbrake lever end."
HTH
Randall
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