Dave,
Uncle Jack & I have been having them bored for about 17 years with good
success. It seems apparent that the OEM liners are superior in metallurgy.
More recently, I worked with a former John Deere employee who has a
performance racing engine shop. We came up with operations that simulate much
of what
we did with the John Deere cylinder liners (without the automation).
Several TR3/4 race cars now use these remanufactured liners. A few street
cars, also.
I have been sending folks directly to J & L Performance Engines with NFI on
my part. This keeps the price low and affordable, even with shipping.
If anyone become serious about doing this, I will try to help facilitate the
process.
(Just as a sidebar, I just installed Chevrolet Con Rods in my TR4 race car.
Carrillo Performance at Chevy Prices. :-)
Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
Hi David :
Personally, I have always just replaced the liners if the old ones needed to
be bored. Boring liners is an unusual operation; most machine shops don't
have the equipment or the know-how; and I would rather not serve as guinea pig
while they learn.
However, there are places around that do bore them, and apparently with good
success. I believe Joe Alexander (ARE) posted that he had developed a jig to
do them and was offering the service, so you might check with him.
Having the engine apart is the surest way to identify the problem ... if it's
piston slap, then the damage to the piston and/or cylinder wall will be
obvious. On my engine with the noise, I had put it together knowing there was
major damage to the wall in #3 ... you could see the taper easily with the
naked
eye ... but couldn't afford a proper rebuild at the time and so resolved to
just keep driving it until it quit. It never did quit, even tho I put some
serious mileage on it; and as it happened I sold that engine (as non-running)
without ever having the pistons out again. Funny part was, it never burned
much
oil either, only used maybe 1 quart per 1000 (which was mostly leaks, IMO).
Randall
> From: DLylis@aol.com [mailto:DLylis@aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 6:34 PM
> To: tr3driver@ca.rr.com
> Subject: Engine rebuild
>
>
>
> I spent some quality time in the TR3A this weekend and the engine knock I
> communicated with you about previously has become concerning. I switched
>from
> Shell Rotella 40W to what I had been running before which is Castrol 20W- 50
> and at cold start the knock is most concerning, however at temp (185) the
> knock is gone. My oil pressure is 30 at idle and 70 at speed.
> I have decided to move on correcting the problem. As I said in my last
> email I have little experience with the wet liner motors and my first
>question
> is, should I bore the old sleeves and replace with oversized pistons or
>replace
> entirely? I am not one to be foolish with money but I am not going to miss a
> meal if I replace the sleeves, and want to do the best thing.
> Although I am getting varied opinions as to whether or not this is piston
> slap, I agree with you that this is likely the cause of the noise given the
> symtoms. The one thing I can't get a conclusive read on is removing the plug
> wires one at a time and identifying the offending piston. I am unable to get
>a
> fix on it with a stethoscope.
> As always, TIA.
>
> David Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
>
>
>
>
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