Last night, I informed the list that I could see some caked powder, about
1/16th" to 1/8" in thickness, on my Professional Powdercoated white sills
(actually on an inside edge). The list corrected me in my mistaken assumption
and I now know that if properly heated to 390 that it will liquify.
Furthermore, this 'inside edge' should not matter since it does not show and
it proably was accidentily oversprayed or more likely, underheated. The good
thing is that 'caked powder' look did not appear on the other parts of the
white sill.
Also the black floorpans had been throughly heated also with no trace
of a
powder. However, I do have questions:
1. In several locations on my powdercoated white inner sills (TR3) are tiny,
tiny rust spots. Only about the diameter of the SHARP end of a threaded-needle
and say one spot for every square inch (in places). These uninstalled new
sills had been set outside in the weather for 6-12 months. Had they not been
powdercoated a bright white, these tiny dots would never have been noticed.
The location of the dots are say, at the small ledge which holds the
floorpan. And actually, hardly are present but on one of the sills. At some
point in the past, I chose to ignore them and just paint over them with clear
colored Por-15. Should I worry about it?
2. I have not 'capped' these inner sills. And the inner sill on the
driver's side will need sometype of capping as the wheel well which covers it
is partially rusted off. Originally, was this covering welded on to the inner
sill? I've heard that while some replacement 'cappings' are commercially
available, they often do not fit properly. I think it would be more water
proof if I simply welded a straight 2"x4" 18 ga. plate over it's flanges than
try and make up a 'plug' to fit it tightly. On the other hand, maybe I should
concentrate on somehow replacing this small section of my rear wheel-well and
then weld the sill to it. Maybe soldering is an option?
What is the wisdom of the list?
Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
60 TR3A
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