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RE: Diver Side Rear Axel Seal

To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Diver Side Rear Axel Seal
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 16:15:07 -0700
> It's a TR3A - and the oil is definitely coming from behind the hub and
> dripping down the backing plate on the right rear wheel.

There are actually two seals that are leaking then, the inner seal that
separates the differential gear oil from the grease in the wheel bearing,
plus the outer grease seal in the bearing housing.

>  From what you are
> saying I need to remove the hub to get to the seal.

The inner seal can be serviced by removing the hub and shaft as an assembly.
You'll need to remove the wheel, then the brake drum, then the 6 bolts that
hold the bearing housing to the axle housing.  If memory serves, you can
leave the brakes in place, but you'll want to do something to support the
backing plate with the cylinder and shoes still mounted to it.  However, the
shoes will almost certainly have been ruined by the leaking gear oil, so
they'll need to be replaced anyway.  Don't bother trying to clean them up &
reuse them, the oil soaks into the lining material and comes out when they
get hot ... just when you don't want any oil on the shoes !

The outer seal is trapped by the hub on the shaft, so the hub has to come
off the shaft to replace the seal.  Although not absolutely necessary, I
would plan on replacing the wheel bearing too, on the grounds that it is
cheap compared to the effort of getting things apart.

>  If I'm not mistaken
> don't I have to do that to inspect the rear brakes as well - or
> am I missing something?

You only have to remove the drum to inspect the brakes, which is a far
simpler task and doesn't require any special tools.

> If I can get the hub off I could inspect it to see where the leak
> is coming from

Just taking the drum off should let you see where the leak is.  With the
wheel off, the drum is only held by two flat head screws.  If it doesn't
want to come off, first back off the brake adjuster all the way, and then
use a brass faced hammer to smack the drum in the plane of the mounting
surface.  Work your way around the edge of the drum to loosen all the rust.
I suggest anti-seize on the drum securing screws when you put them back in.

Randall

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