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Re: Diver Side Rear Axel Seal

To: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Diver Side Rear Axel Seal
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 17:31:50 -0500
References: <NOEDJDCNFBCNELMBFNFEEEDDHAAA.tr3driver@comcast.net>
Hi Randall -
Of course "I" know what the car is and naturally assumed everyone else did!
<duh>

It's a TR3A - and the oil is definitely coming from behind the hub and
dripping down the backing plate on the right rear wheel.  From what you are
saying I need to remove the hub to get to the seal.  If I'm not mistaken
don't I have to do that to inspect the rear brakes as well - or am I missing
something?

If I can get the hub off I could inspect it to see where the leak is coming
from - but it looks like I have a problem on my hands either way.

Do we have any Illinois listers who have the tool?  Ken - Irv?

TIA

Wayne



----- Original Message ----- 
From "Randall" <tr3driver at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2004 5:17 PM
Subject: RE: Diver Side Rear Axel Seal


> > A pool of dark oil on the ground, and sprayed oil inside my nice
> > new wheels,
> > would appear to indicate that my drivers side axel oil seal has
> > given up the
> > ghost.  Brake fluid level is fine so I know it's not a cylinder or line.
> >
> > Am I looking at a monster job - or maybe a seal I can pry out and
> > push a new
> > one in? <fingers crossed!!>
>
> Wayne, we need a lot more information, including what car and which axle.
>
> Your description doesn't make a lot of sense anyway, since only the TR2-4
> have oil anywhere near the wheels, and it would have to get through two
> seals and a bearing full of grease to run out onto the wheels.  My guess
is
> that you're looking at two different problems.
>
> The axle grease seals in the front are pretty easy to replace.  The ones
in
> the rear require a special tool that no one has.
>
> I'm only kidding a little bit, there are a few people that have the tool
but
> not many.  To change the seal, the rear hubs have to be pressed off of the
> axle.  Because of the extreme force involved, it's essential that the hub
be
> properly supported during the operation, otherwise it may distort and ruin
> the hub.  The "right" tool looks like a steel tophat and has a wide flange
> that mates with the hub flange to hold it flat.
>
> I'm going to have Herman van den Akker do mine ... he has made a custom
tool
> that not only supports the flange properly, but uses a hydraulic jack
> instead of a forcing screw.

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