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RE: R&P TR3b

To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: R&P TR3b
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 20:39:26 -0700
> Well, I finally sent off my $950 to B.A.R. for the Rack & Pinion kit
> for my TR3b. ouch!

Call it an object lesson ... a good rebuild on an original box costs about
5% that much and, when filled with synthetic gear oil, works just about as
well.  Gives a quicker steering ratio too.

> Also have a set of later upper a-arms that will give me 3 degrees of
> camber or is it castor...?

Probably castor, if it's just TR4A upper arms.  Makes the steering harder,
ya know ... oh, and be sure you get the trunnions that go with them,
installed on the correct sides.  They're different.

> This is gonna make a HUGE difference as the front end is seriously
> sloppy at present and the steering is a bit stiff.
> Ted from BAR promises a light turning wheel with only a 14" diam wheel!

I like my original wheel, can park with one hand.

> In the last month I have put on new rotors and pads, speed-bleeders,
> redone the front calipers with new seals and s/s pistons as well as s/s
> flexible lines throughout, new cylinders and shoes in the rear, kept
> the original drums that measured out ok, bleed well and they still need
> a bit of a pump to feel entirely firm.
> You CAN lock up the car without the extra pump but it feels like the
> pedal goes too far down.

How far is too far ?  Maybe your leg is too short ?  Are you sure the hard
lines are in good shape ?

> If I tighten the rears one more notch there
> would be considerable drag when turning the wheel by hand.

Should be no detectable drag.  If you can feel the drag, the brakes will get
unholy hot at freeway speeds.  BTDT.  Best IMO is to turn until you can feel
the drag with the adjuster in the 'notch', then back off by one notch.  Do
be sure it's in the notch, tho.

> I am going to have to remove the apron and have the radiator out
> anyway, so I am gonna send it in for a new core...triple???

I never even asked, just told the man I needed a new core.  Was a Modine,
and it worked very well.  I didn't have the crank hole put in, since it does
reduce capacity and I don't have the crank dog anymore.  If you want, you
can call Mac's Radiator in Bellflower, CA and ask for Kurt ... he'll
probably remember me.  Outstanding place for any radiator work, BTW, I've
been dealing with them for almost 20 years and I have always been happy with
them.  They do gas tanks, too.

Randall
59 TR3A TS39781LO daily driver (back on the road, woo hoo!)
71 Stag LE1473L daily driver wanna be (waiting for J-type transplant)
63 Sports 6 HB7826LCV rustoration project
57 TR3 TS21731L rusting quietly





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