> As I recall from the manual you're supposed to tighten the
> castellated nut
> to about 10 LB then back off 1 or two flats. When I do this there
> seems to
> be more endplay than I feel is correct. Does anybody have a endplay spec?
I don't, but it should be easy enough to calculate from 1.5 - 2 'flats',
which is 1/4 - 1/3 turn of the nut. Multiply that by the thread pitch
(which I don't recall offhand) and you have the clearance. The manual
doesn't say so, but I believe it's also good practice to turn the hub as you
torque the nut to 10 ftlb, to be sure the bearings are seated and there
isn't a grease film causing a false indication. (FWIW, GM does recommend
this)
Yes, Triumph specified the front wheel bearings to be pretty loose. I'm
guessing they were worried about heat from the brake disc causing the hub to
expand more than the stub axle, but that's just a guess. Anyway, they seem
to work OK like that.
> Also, if the bearing starts to squeal I assume that it's the race bearing
> surface that's spinning on the stub axle, thus the squeal.
Don't know that I would assume that, but if the bearing is actually
squealing (rather than the brake pads), then immediate attention (and
usually replacement) is required. If the bearing race is turning on the
stub axle, I would suspect the stub axle is ready to be replaced, too.
> I usually apply
> a coating of bearing grease to this surface before installing the hub and
> bearings. Should this be clean?
IMO, yes.
> And, now that they've started squealing do they need replaced?
The bearings are so cheap, compared to all the other things they'll ruin if
they fail ... I would replace them if there is the slightest doubt about
their condition. My only concern would be if it's really the wheel bearings
you are hearing, and not the brake pads (which will sometimes squeal as they
drag lightly when the brakes aren't applied, and then shut up when they
are).
Randall
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