Joe Lynn wrote :
>
> My car
> was converted to negative ground somewhere along the way, & the
> neg wire was
> connected to the valve cover. Does it matter which body bolt I
> switch it to?
Not unless you're worried about originality. If you aren't, then I would
suggest finding a bolt on the engine and running a cable to it ... much
better IMO than the factory arrangement. However, the valve cover is not
suitable !
> Also, the Moss catalog lists an engine ground strap. I can't
> find one, and I'm thinking that this could be part of my problem: with the
> ground going to the valve cover, could I be lacking a ground to the body?
The ground strap would be necessary even with the battery ground cable
connected to the engine. However, you might not notice it's lack, since the
engine is usually also grounded through the choke cable. (A smoking choke
cable is a common symptom of a missing ground strap with the battery
grounded to the body.)
> Where does the engine ground strap usually connect?
At the LH front motor mount, the cable runs from the stud that fastens the
mount to the engine front plate, to one of the bolts that fastens the mount
to the frame.
> I tried this and there was current, but only when I held it to the bolt
> coming out of the solenoid. There was no current on the nut,
> which I thought
> was strange.
Not so strange ... you've just found at least one of your problems ! There
is a bad connection there (although it might just be between your lamp probe
and the nut).
> I drove it home, replaced the battery terminals & it seemed that all was
> well. THen I stalled it with the lights on & I was back to
> nothing again. I
> checked the battery again & then the solenoid & then noticed that the
> ignition light was back on. Seems like a ground problem?
Could be a bad connection almost anywhere ... including a ground. If it
happens again, try wiggling just one connection at a time, then recheck the
warning lamp after each one.
Another thing to try ... with a cool engine disconnect the coil wire and
crank the engine for 20 seconds or so. Then immediately feel all the high
current connection points (battery terminals, starter solenoid terminals,
battery ground strap, etc.) for anything that is hot. Sorry, this method
entails a certain amount of risk (of being burnt). If you find a hot spot,
that indicates a dubious connection. Disassemble and clean the connection,
then reassemble and repeat the test. If it's still hot (especially on the
solenoid), then the device is bad.
Randall
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