> Just to throw some fat on the fire...... I am of the opinion that any
> good mineral oil of the right viscosity will work fine in our cars.
> We're not talking about jet engines here, guys. The engines were
> designed 40 years ago and the oil can be changed quite easily.
I will certainly agree that the differences, if any, are subtle. The way
most people use their Triumphs today, they will never know the difference if
their engine only lasts 75,000 miles instead of 150,000.
> On a historic note, long ago there was something to the designation
> "Pennsylvania grade." Oils from PA and the area surrounding it were
> known to have a higher paraffin content than Texas oils. This gave a
> greater film strength.
Just to be contrary (big surprise there), I don't think "paraffinic" oils
are suitable for use in LBCs. The paraffin tends to settle out with use and
form sludge. In some cases that's good, the sludge provides an extra level
of protection, but it also can clog the rocker shaft in our engines.
The synthetic Valvoline I use has a far greater film strength ... and leaves
the inside of the engine clean as a whistle, even though I don't change it
as often as Triumph recommended.
The short block I'm running at the moment is from a 56 TR3 ... to the best
of my knowledge it has the original crankshaft and it's never been ground.
I put it in my car about 10 years ago, as a "temporary" solution while I
built a hot rod motor (real soon now!). Although I don't keep mileage
records, I'd guess I've put 60,000 miles on it since then. The rear seal is
shot, but it still runs good ...
Randall
59 TR3A TS39781LO daily driver (back on the road, woo hoo!)
71 Stag LE1473L daily driver wanna be (waiting for J-type transplant)
63 Sports 6 HB7826LCV rustoration project
57 TR3 TS21731L rusting quietly
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