Michael D. Porter wrote :
> If you mean for brake hydraulics, the lines and fittings are
> double-flared (which some prefer to call a "bubble" flare).
I suppose we're arguing slang here, which of course may vary, but IMO a
bubble flare is by no means the same thing as a double flare. A double
flare looks just like a common single (concave) flair (as used in water and
refrigeration plumbing), except that the tube is bent back on itself at the
flare such that there are two thicknesses of metal where the nut clamps to
the fitting (and the cut edge of the tubing is not at the largest diameter).
The business end of a bubble flare is convex, the tubing end winds up
looking more like a diamond. The fittings are of course unique to each type
of flare, don't try to mix them.
Which is used on your LBC depends on which fitting and which LBC. My TR3A
has exclusively double flares, while my Sports 6 has at least one bubble
flare (at the brake MC) and the Stag has at least two (at the brake MC).
However the Stag has double flares at the wheel ends (as I assume the Sports
6 does).
Your local hardware store won't have it, but most auto tool sources (even
Kragen had one) carry a flaring kit that is supposedly capable of both
double and bubble flares. (To make a double flare, you first form a bubble
flare, and then crush the 'bubble' with the flaring tool.) However, I had a
terrible time making a good bubble flare with the cheap kits I tried, and
only moderate difficulty with a Snap-On kit. Part of the problem may be
that I was using pre-formed brake line (cut of course) and it may not have
been as soft as good virgin Bundy tubing. If I do it again, I'll buy some
"Cunifer" or equivalent, rather than trying to flare the steel stuff.
Randall
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