> I'm in the
> process of hooking up the cable now. It seems to me that it is
> going to be really
> hard to pull. Have I done something wrong? Is the TR3 choke
> hard to pull?
The choke on a TR3 is a bit harder to pull than most cars, but shouldn't be
impossible by any means. Bob has already mentioned being sure the inner
choke cable moves easily in it's housing, this is important. If it binds in
the least when not connected, it will bind much worse with force on it. I
believe the original inner cable was stranded, I've never had very good luck
trying to use aftermarket cables with solid cores. (Although I do use a
non-original stranded cable I got from Moss many years ago that IMO works
better than the original.)
Note that all the pivots in the choke linkage should be somewhat loose,
don't try to tighten them up by using bolts instead of the original pins.
People sometimes stretch the springs inside the jets, in a mistaken attempt
to stop them from leaking. This can cause the choke to be stiff, and worse,
make the jet so stiff that the spring will not return it home (meaning you
effectively still have the choke on even though the knob is in). I
recommend always replacing both the internal jet springs and the jet return
springs when doing a full rebuild (even though they aren't usually included
in the rebuild kit).
> Also, I had a question about two 5/16 X 3 inch springs I found in my door
> hardware can of parts. Does anyone know if the doors require
> springs for the
> latch? If they do, I don't know where they go.
On my pre-60K car, they go between a hole in the lever attached to the shaft
from the outside handle; to a hole in the sheet metal near the rear edge of
the door. Post-60K may be different. They pull the door handle back to
horizontal after you open the door.
There is another spring inside the latch assembly that extends the plunger,
but I've never had mine apart.
Randall
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