> Unless you drill and tap a plug into
> the bottom
> of the diff I think this is the only way to change the diff oil in a 4 or
> 4A.
On the solid axle cars, you just remove the cover to drain the oil. That
way you can also clean and inspect.
>
> Topping up OTOH is just a matter of filling one of those cheapo oil cans
> with a flexible spout and a little piston pump inside which will
> bend round
> and fit into the plughole.
Aren't you worried you'll wind up with one thumb larger than the other ?
Best to switch hands I guess ... <g>
> However I think the maintenance schedule for the 4's and 4A's
> does not call
> for the oil in the diff to be replaced..........ever!
That's true, but IMO doesn't mean changing it every 30,000 miles or so is a
bad idea. Even 'modern' oils degrade over time, and that 40 year old stuff
isn't even oil by now ! Typical of most manufacturers at the time, Leyland
did not care if their cars lasted past 100,000 miles; in fact they would
much rather that they didn't. Having the diff wear out at a ripe old age
(like 100k) was just a little extra inducement to buy a new car... and
allowed them to save a few cents on every car by deleting the drain plug.
> Perhaps one should
> arrange a very slow leak (as if you need to on a TR) from the diff so that
> the oil gets progressively changed over say a five year period.
Problem is, a leak that slow may filter out (and keep inside) wear
particles. And since the new oil is constantly mixed with the old oil,
you'll have to run a lot more oil through to keep it 'changed'.
Randall
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