The A-type solenoid is a double-wound unit. It has a switch at the bottom of
the shaft that turns off the high-current winding when the core is pulled
home. That is why the activation shows a huge current at first followed by a
steady one-amp draw. Re-winding that by hand would be "fun". If you don't
get the low-current just right, then the unit will heat and burn. The
high-current winding is too hot to maintain for more than a minute or so,
but must pull very strongly to activate the overdrive unit. Good luck.
Mark Hooper,
72 TR6
-----Original Message-----
From: Biedermann, Frank (SSABSA)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: 25/04/02 9:10 PM
Subject: RE: A couple of things
> 1. At our club's monthly meeting last night, another member
> was asking me if I knew whether an OD solenoid (A-type for a
> 3A), once shorted, is repairable. Given the high cost for
> such a simple device (no computer chip technology here!), is
> there a possibility, or is that why they cost so much - once
> 'smoked', they're toast?
Well, you can re-wind the solenoid, or get them professionally
rewound, but you'll need to get the correct gauge wire, and also
ensure that it has the proper non-conductive coating on it (I've
forgotten what it's called, but it's the sort of wire people use
for making coils, etc in electronics). Ah, the electronics catalogue
that I've just dug out lists it simply as "winding wire" or "self
fluxing winding wire". One thing you'll need to do is be very
careful to reproduce the winding pattern that was originally used
in the existing solenoid otherwise you may not end up with the
same order of force output from it...
> 2. After a long winter's hibernation, my TR6 is back on the
> roads of Ottawa. After doing the standard season preps, I
> also checked the lights. I have a strange problem in my front
> left turn signal (I have a '76): the two bulbs alternate
> their flashing, in an 'emergency vehicle' kind of way. The
> other 3 turn signals are fine. Is this a variant of the Lucas
> ground problem (99% of all lights are!)? I've heard of 'off',
> 'flicker' and 'dim' - but 'alternating'? A neighbour says he
> prefers that - could I get the passenger side to do it as
> well (funny guy, eh?).
As I understand it, the "blinker" module effectively switches
its output periodically from the positive battery terminal,
to ground (negative terminal). I also believe the indicators
should have one terminal connected permanently to ground, but
from your symptoms it sounds like one of your indicators is
permanently connected to the positive terminal of the battery
instead of the negative terminal. Ie if you consider the Xs
below as the globes, what you have is:
+ve term. ----X---- "blinker output" ----X---- -ve term.
So, when the output of the blinker is positive the RH globe
(in the diagram above) will light up, but the LH globe won't
as its two input leads are at the same potential - ie,
effectively what you'll have is:
+ve term. ----X---- +ve term. ----X---- -ve term.
"off" "on"
Conversely, when the blinker output is negative, the LH globe
will light up, but the RH globe won't as its inputs are at the
same potential, ie:
+ve term. ----X---- -ve term. ----X---- -ve term.
"on" "off"
The upshot of all this is that one of your globes is wired
incorrectly...
Hope this helps,
Frank Biedermann
69 TR6 PI
Adelaide
AUSTRALIA
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