>What happens is that the axle shaft encounters the chassis and
> limits the downward movement of the trailing arm such that the spring > is
still SLIGHTLY compressed. So for me it is necessary to unbolt
> the half-shafts from the differential.
I was having a difficult time getting one rear spring out and couldn't
figure out why (especially when I'd had both springs out before). If
finally occurred to me to simply turned the half-shaft by hand (take it out
of gear). That let the trailing arm drop just a little more and let me take
the spring out. Sometimes the half-shaft's rotational position will hang up
on the chassis a little differently than in other positions and won't give
you all the slack you need to get the spring out.
Just thought I'd share my experience and maybe save someone from having to
loosen the inner half-shaft at the differential.
If your springs are longer than stock then this might not work but it's
worth a try before taking out more bolts.
Bud Rolofson
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete & Aprille Chadwell" <pandachadwell@mac.com>
To: "Triumphs Mailing List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: TR6 Rear Supsension (longer than expected)
> >I think my next step is to replace the springs with slightly lowered and
> >stiffer springs, and replace the shock absorbers on all four corners with
> >adjustable Spax units. I know I should have done all of that at the same
> >time as the bushes/anti-sway bar, but unfortunately I ran out of cash...
> >Besides, replacing the springs and shocks (at least on the rear) is
> >relatively simple and should only take a short amount of time. Notice I
was
> >careful to say "should" there...
>
> Glad everything worked out for you, Frank. I should warn you that,
> depending upon which springs you have in place now, it may not be
> quite as easy to change them later on. With my 1973 TR6, which has
> competition springs, I cannot remove the spring from the trailing
> arms by simply releasing the lever shock drop arm from the trailing
> arm. What happens is that the axle shaft encounters the chassis and
> limits the downward movement of the trailing arm such that the spring
> is still SLIGHTLY compressed. So for me it is necessary to unbolt
> the half-shafts from the differential. This frees up the inboard end
> of the half-shaft and allows the trailing arm to drop far enough to
> release the spring entirely. Now this may or may not be the case for
> you. It depends on the springs.
>
> You probably ought to take the car down to an alignment shop and have
> a four-wheel alignment done as well. I'm assuming the front end is
> in good shape, of course. But I'll guarantee you that the alignment
> of the rear wheels is not what it was now with the new bushings.
> Order several of the proper alignment shims and take them to the
> alignment shop with the car so they can use the right shims.
>
> Also, you might check the bolts that secure the half-shafts to the
> differential to see if they've loosened up any. I always replace the
> nylocs when I have these apart, (and I realize you had to since yours
> were all rounded off) but nylocs or no nylocs, the things will go
> just a smidge loose on you after the first few drives.
>
> --
> Pete Chadwell
> 1973 TR6
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