>I think my next step is to replace the springs with slightly lowered and
>stiffer springs, and replace the shock absorbers on all four corners with
>adjustable Spax units. I know I should have done all of that at the same
>time as the bushes/anti-sway bar, but unfortunately I ran out of cash...
>Besides, replacing the springs and shocks (at least on the rear) is
>relatively simple and should only take a short amount of time. Notice I was
>careful to say "should" there...
Glad everything worked out for you, Frank. I should warn you that,
depending upon which springs you have in place now, it may not be
quite as easy to change them later on. With my 1973 TR6, which has
competition springs, I cannot remove the spring from the trailing
arms by simply releasing the lever shock drop arm from the trailing
arm. What happens is that the axle shaft encounters the chassis and
limits the downward movement of the trailing arm such that the spring
is still SLIGHTLY compressed. So for me it is necessary to unbolt
the half-shafts from the differential. This frees up the inboard end
of the half-shaft and allows the trailing arm to drop far enough to
release the spring entirely. Now this may or may not be the case for
you. It depends on the springs.
You probably ought to take the car down to an alignment shop and have
a four-wheel alignment done as well. I'm assuming the front end is
in good shape, of course. But I'll guarantee you that the alignment
of the rear wheels is not what it was now with the new bushings.
Order several of the proper alignment shims and take them to the
alignment shop with the car so they can use the right shims.
Also, you might check the bolts that secure the half-shafts to the
differential to see if they've loosened up any. I always replace the
nylocs when I have these apart, (and I realize you had to since yours
were all rounded off) but nylocs or no nylocs, the things will go
just a smidge loose on you after the first few drives.
--
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
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