Hi Dave
Put the other piston back in and re-connect the calliper to the car, use
hydraulic force to expel the other piston, you will need to wedge the free
moving piston in to stop it popping out again, I do this with a piece of
1/2"x 1" steel bar through the slot in the calliper where the disc would
normally run then any thing that will fit to reduce the gap, the hydraulic
method is stronger in force (to the tune of several hundred PSI), and more
controlled than air as the piston will usually only move a small distance
for one full stroke of the pedal, It is probably a good idea to put the
calliper in a bag so that when it pops you don't end up running to get water
to neutralise (dilute) the brake fluid on the paint before the brake job
turns into a respray!
This will usually do the trick, you will have to bleed the calliper before
you do this so that you are not just compressing air behind the piston.
This technique can be used on pretty much all hydraulic systems, including
clutch slave and drum brake cylinders.
Graham,
1967 1300 FWD
1968 2000 Saloon
1972 2.5PI Saloon
1974 Sprinted Dolomite 1850
1975 Toledo in restoration!
http://www.triumph-iw.co.uk
http://www.mickdolphin.co.uk Spares Supplier.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Smith"
Subject: Disk Brake Problem non-Triumph
|
| The right front caliper on my 77 911 was frozen so that the wheel couldn't
be
| turned by hand and the car couldn't be pushed by the awesome strength of
my
| spouse and me. I removed the caliper (brutal details omitted) and used air
| pressure to pop out one of the pistons. The other piston won't budge. I
used a
| clamp to force it deeper into the caliper hoping to break it free and it
moved
| about an eighth inch. Air pressure still does not budge it. Anybody know
of
| another way to free it?
|
| Dave Smith
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