Subject: TR4 clutch questions
>
> Hi list
>
> I am still struggling with my clutch operation. I did rebuild the master
> an slave cylinder, put a brand new hose in, and bleed the system in many
> different ways, following the good advises that I got from the list, but
my
> problem is still there. If the clutch pedal was not used for about 15
min,
> the pedal is soft and will not operate the clutch with the first push, the
> second push will barley operate the clutch (the clutch releases and
engages
> when the pedal is all the way down to the fire wall, and the third push
> will give a very good clutch operation, just the way it is supposed to be.
>
> All the bleeding, rapid pumping prior to opening the screw, or holding the
> pedal down and let the clutch pressure push the piston back, etc. does not
> help, I do not see any air bubbles coming out, but there must be some in
> the system, but where and how do I get it out? The bleeder screw is in
the
> upside position on the slave cylinder, and I jack the car up at the front
> cross member to ensure, that all the air goes to the top to the bleeder
> screw. What shall I do, any ideas how to get this darn thing to operate
> properly?
>
> Any advise is very much appreciated!
>
> Dietmar
Hi Dietmar,
I'm not that familiar with the TR4 clutch hydraulics but assume it is
similar to the TR250/TR6.
If you can get the clutch to operate after pushing the pedal several times
and it then operates properly as long as it doesn't set for a while I think
you have most or all the air out of the system.
One thing that might be happening is that the slave cylinder piston is
slowly sliding back into the slave cylinder when it sets for a few minutes.
If this is the case, it will be necessary to push the pedal several times to
return the piston to where it will operate the clutch.
You might measure the released position of the arm on the clutch shaft after
you have the clutch operating by pushing the pedal once. Then measure it ag
ain after it has set for the 15 minutes. If it has moved toward the front
of the car, then the problem is with the adjustment of the push rod.
Another way to test this is to remove the return spring (the TR250s and TR6s
use a non adjustable push rod and no return spring making it self
adjusting).
If the arm moves after it sets or if it seems to run better when the spring
is removed, than it's likely that the push rod needs adjusted.
Nelson Riedel
Granville, OH
76 TR6 (assembling after new paint)
68 TR250 (next project - new paint)
70 TR6 (all the parts in a pile ready to assemble)
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