I'm sure Kai's device is much sturdier than mine, but since I have no welder
(or ability to use one), I resorted to a garden hose for testing my gearbox.
I don't have a 1/2" chuck on my drill either, so I chucked a 1/2" drill bit
with a reduced shank into the 3/8" drill I DO have. Then, I slipped one end
of a short length of 1/2" ID garden hose over the input shaft, the other end
onto the drill bit. Used hose clamps to hold the ends in place. Worked like
a charm and no centering to worry about.
The key word above, regarding the hose length, is "short". There should be
only a very small gap between the end of the drill bit and the input shaft,
and the hose clamps should be close to the ends of both. If the gap is too
great, the hose will tend to twist and eventually twist itself apart. Worked
for me anyway...YMMV.
Wish I'd had some the the other info Kai provided when I was testing mine.
Nice documentation! Oh well...
Michael Ferguson
1959 TR3A TS53990L...O
----------
>From: "Kai M. Radicke" <kmr@pil.net>
>To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, "Britcar List"
<british-cars@autox.team.net>, "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
"6-Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Testing Overdrives & Gearboxes CORRECTION
>Date: Fri, Nov 24, 2000, 4:29 AM
>
>
> Thanks to Michael Porter, Barney Gaylord, and Randall Young for catching the
> mistake I made about tailshaft RPM... no idea why I did that. Corrected
now...
>
> Secondly, Michael Porter has the following improvement for those of you bound
to
> tighten the clamping bolts very well!
>
> "The device would be less likely to mar the input shaft if a
> clamping collar were made. I realize the shaft is hardened, but if
> someone uses grade 8 bolts and cranks down on them to minimize slippage,
> there is a chance of damaging the nose of the input shaft. Clamping
> collars are a common lathe tool when working on small, delicate pieces.
> A suitable clamping collar can be made cheaply by finding a short piece
> of copper water pipe of an inside diameter just about equal to that of
> the OD of the input shaft, then sawing a slot in one side. Then, it's
> just a matter of slipping the clamping collar onto the input shaft, then
> tightening the drive tool bolts down."
>
> NOTE: I haven't yet found there to be any slippage of the tool, as there is
> pretty much no weight on the input shaft; I assume that someone is holding the
> drill while it is operating!
>
> Cheers,
>
> KMR
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