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Re: TR6 Clutch job

To: "Graham Stretch" <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>
Subject: Re: TR6 Clutch job
From: "Bryce Milton" <Bryce@Milton.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 17:54:16 -0700charset="iso-8859-1"
Cc: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <001301c00575$141002c0$854e73cf@brycemilton> <000801c0057b$3f994720$41f831d4@innsbruk>
    Thanks for the reply.  When I went to the local parts store, they had
two clutch kits available, an AC Delco 6" and 7" both for $152 and Moss is
showing just one type from either Borg&Beck or LUK.  Would I also need a
release bearing ($45)?  What all do I need and where's the best source?  I
only hear noise when the clutch is depressed (gear selected or not), but it
engages firmly without obvious slippage when the clutch is out.  A quiet
whirring can also be heard when the car is neutral and the clutch is out
with the engine idling, the nastiest sounds are be heard when the clutch is
in.  I put it on jack stands and took a look today and was wondering how
tough it is to get the bell housing unbolted (hard to get at the top
bolts?).  After I get those loose, how to proceed?

-Bryce

----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Stretch" <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>
To: "Bryce Milton" <Bryce@Milton.com>
Cc: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2000 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: TR6 Clutch job


> Hi Brice
> I would think that you should be able to do the clutch job OK, it is a
> fairly straight forward nut and bolt job, if you took it out from there
put
> it back in the same place kind of thing! The thing that I would question
is
> where the noise is coming from, the car must be stationary with a gear
> selected when you hear the noise to narrow it down to the clutch, if it is
> then I guess it must be from the thrust bearing, if you don't have a gear
> selected the input shaft and laygear cluster could still be spinning due
to
> drag in the system, then the noise could be from either of these.
> Wherever the noise is coming from I would say if you don't mind a bit of
> hard labour and you have the time to do it, DIY. If this is your first
time
> I would allow a weekend and take it slow and steady, get a new spigot
> bearing that goes in the end of the crank to support the gearbox input
> shaft, they are not dear and can prevent a couple of problems.
>
> Graham.
> 2.5 PI MKII
> Sprinted Dolomite
> 2000 MKI
> Toledo
> 1300 Front Wheel Drive
>
> http://www.triumph-iw.co.uk
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bryce Milton" <Bryce@Milton.com>
> To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2000 11:22 PM
> Subject: TR6 Clutch job
>
>
> >
> >     Hello list, thanks you for all of your help on my tune-up last week,
> > it's been absolutely purring.  Unfortunately, a few days ago I started
> > hearing some whirring noises when the clutch was depressed, and
yesterday
> I
> > started hearing far more disturbing sounds...
> >     My shop manual still hasn't arrived and I'm wondering if a fellow
who
> > needs his hand held to do a proper tune-up would be able to handle a
> clutch
> > job?  If not, what's a fair price to have someone else do it and what
> kinds
> > of concerns should I have when selecting a shop for the work?  Any tips
on
> > the DITY procedure would be appreciated as would any thoughts on a good
> shop
> > in the Seattle/Redmond area.  The local VTR chapter has some
> recommendations
> > listed here http://www.tyeetriumph.org/spon.html.
> >
> > -Bryce
> > Proud new owner of a '76 TR6
> > http://www.milton.com/bryce_sara/triumph/
> >
>


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