Graham Stretch wrote:
> Hi Brice
> I don't know which is the correct size for the TR6, I have a sedan which is
> the same engine /Basic box, I believe the input shaft dia differs between
> the two, also I believe the TR6 Box comes out upwards through the car as the
> chassis prevents removal downwards, the sedan comes out downwards as the
> tunnel for the box is fixed in. Once you have the tunnel cover removed from
> your car it should be easy to get the bolts over the top, unlike the sedan
> where you have to lower the back of the box slightly then feed about 2 1/2
> feet of extensions up through the gear stick hole to reach the top nuts,
> there are other methods but I have found that way is quickest! Yes get the
> release bearing, it is probably that making all the noise, and no it is not
> worth changing only that, whilst you are doing the hard labour, I would say
> change it all, including the taper bolt that holds the release bearing fork
> to the cross shaft, others on the list have gone even further and added a
> roll pin through the assembly to increase the strength. I would also fit new
> bearings for the cross shaft, I generally fit the new ones in addition to
> the old ones though it would be better to get four new ones and remove the
> old ones completely. The quiet whirring noise is quite common and perfectly
> acceptable, you could possibly remedy that with a gearbox rebuild but it
> often remains to some extent, so I wouldn't bother unless you feel a touch
> of shipwrights coming on! Whilst you are under the car it would be worth
> pulling the boot on the slave cylinder and seeing if it is wet inside, if it
> is wet rather than just having a light film of fluid on the bore, you may as
> well do the seal on the slave cyl, or have I got shipwrights now!
>
> Graham.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bryce Milton" <Bryce@Milton.com>
> To: "Graham Stretch" <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>
> Cc: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 1:54 AM
> Subject: Re: TR6 Clutch job
>
> > Thanks for the reply. When I went to the local parts store, they had
> > two clutch kits available, an AC Delco 6" and 7" both for $152 and Moss is
> > showing just one type from either Borg&Beck or LUK. Would I also need a
> > release bearing ($45)? What all do I need and where's the best source? I
> > only hear noise when the clutch is depressed (gear selected or not), but
> it
> > engages firmly without obvious slippage when the clutch is out. A quiet
> > whirring can also be heard when the car is neutral and the clutch is out
> > with the engine idling, the nastiest sounds are be heard when the clutch
> is
> > in. I put it on jack stands and took a look today and was wondering how
> > tough it is to get the bell housing unbolted (hard to get at the top
> > bolts?). After I get those loose, how to proceed?
> >
> > -Bryce
It's a 95% chance that the noise you describe is throwout bearing and that you
don't need a clutch. They are available from any of the big 3.
I did this job on my car two weeks ago.
It took one-and-a-half days, most of which was removing and refitting the
interior.
Remove the interior, remove the tunnel, unbolt the starter and slave cylinder,
unbolt the trans from the engine - no problem whatsoever. You must unbolt the
driveshaft from both ends to give you room to slide the trans back. Again, no
major problem.
Then with the engine supported by a jack and the seats and interior out, you
slide the trans back and turn it 90 deg, leaving it on the floor of the car,
while you fish out the T.O bearing. You press or hammer the old bearing off the
carrier and install the new one. Getting the trans back onto the engine can be a
bitch, or it might go 'pop' right in. Ya never know. During this little exercise
of grunting and groaning, I fasten the throwout lever in the rearward position
with a wire through one of the engine / trans mounting holes, and after the
pilot shaft is started in the hole, I cut the wire and pull it out. This
prevents the t/o bearing sleeve from coming off the trans snout during all this
wrestling.
You might also take a look at the front and rear seals and replace anything
that's needed at this time, hopefully eliminating at least one "drip". I would
also do one more piece of preventative maintenance while the taans is out. Drill
a 5/16" hole front - to - back through the fork and shaft and install a bolt and
nut. Then, if that damned locking pin is broken or if it breaks in the future,
it doesn't matter.
Good luck.
--
TR6 -- 29 and still running
TR4 -- 39 but no longer racing
uncle jack -- temporarily sidelined
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