Hi Jerry
I generally crack all of them first, I think this allows the stresses to
spread around evenly, I guess it would be ok to crack each one as you come
to it, I am not sure if there is a correct and incorrect method for this
procedure! I think it would be ok to go back up in one step as you should
only be loosening it enough that it can turn a bit before reaching the
correct torque, the idea of this is you know the bolt is up to torque not
just being held by the stiction / friction of the thread and washer contact
area!
Graham.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Oliver" <slantws@Home.com>
To: "Graham Stretch" <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>
Cc: "triumphs list" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 1:20 AM
Subject: Re: Tr4 Head studs
> Graham
> Are saying crack all the nuts loose? or each one in sequence then work
back
> up through 5 or 6 progressively higher values to 105 lbs? (yes, that the
> spec.) on that nut?
> Jerry Oliver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Graham Stretch" <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 4:09 PM
> Subject: Re: Tr4 Head studs
>
>
> >
> > Hi Jerry
> > Yes crack the nuts loose before retorquing, yes retorque head when warm,
> use
> > the same value, these are the rules for my cylinder heads though I don't
> > have a TR4, also I would recommend a retorque after about the first 1000
> > miles. 105 lbft? TR4's use bolts that will hold 105 lbft? That makes the
> > 60-65 lbft on my cars look a bit lame!
> >
> > Graham.
> > 2.5 PI MKII
> > Sprinted Dolomite
> > 2000 MKI
> > Toledo
> > 1300 Front Wheel Drive
> >
> > http://www.triumph-iw.co.uk
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jerry Oliver" <slantws@Home.com>
> > To: "triumphs list" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 5:51 AM
> > Subject: Fw: Tr4 Head studs
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Jerry Oliver" <slantws@Home.com>
> > > To: <erl@unix.mail.virginia.edu>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 9:30 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Tr4 Head studs
> > >
> > >
> > > > Ok, I heard one recently that I hadn't heard before. That is, when
> > > > retorquing to break each nut loose as you proceed through the
> > sequence.
> > > > Any opinions? Also, as I was thumbing through a TR maintenance
manual
> at
> > > VTR
> > > > Portland last week, the book listed 105 lbs and the typical sequence
> and
> > > > then suggested retorquing the head warm, but gave no value. I have
> > > retorqued
> > > > cold.
> > > > Jerry Oliver
> > > > Olympia, WA
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: <erl@unix.mail.virginia.edu>
> > > > To: <ArthurK101@aol.com>
> > > > Cc: <greenman62@hotmail.com>; <kluckvon@students.uiuc.edu>;
> > > > <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:26 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: Tr4 Head studs
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > There is no sacro-sanct rule on the head sequencing to torque the
> > head.
> > > > > Basic rule, stated here: start in the center, and work as a
spiral
> > > > > outwards to the end. Try to keep the same pattern. Take the
studs
> to
> > > > > about 50 ft-lb, then upwards at about 10 ft-lb per step, until
about
> > 90
> > > > > ft-lb. Then in 5 ft-lb increments until the 105-110 level. After
> you
> > > get
> > > > > to about 70 ft-lb, you want to use a lead or brass mallet and hit
> the
> > > head
> > > > > on the end, a stout whack, after each torquing. If you don't have
> the
> > > > > mallet, you can use a steel hammer, but put a piece of wood (oak
is
> > > best)
> > > > > between. This relieves stresses in the head.
> > > > >
> > > > > On Tue, 8 Aug 2000
> > > > > ArthurK101@aol.com wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > In a message dated 07-Aug-00 17:57:36 Eastern Daylight Time,
> > > > > > greenman62@hotmail.com writes:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > You could do it numerically... I don't have my book handy
either
> > > > > > > however, the trick is to start with the nuts in the middle
of
> > the
> > > > > > > head (between 2 and 3 cylinders) and work outward to either
> end
> > > of
> > > > > > > the head it's kind of like a spiral. I'll try to do you a
> > picture
> > > > > > > (see below)
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > 8 6 1 3 9
> > > > > > > 10 4 2 5 7
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I hope it doesn't get too scrambled...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Greg, that is not the same as either my Haynes or the Factory
> manual
> > > > shows.
> > > > > > My Haynes manual (p.27 fig1.7) and the latter (p.1-127 fig.59)
> both
> > > > show:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 9 3 1 6 8
> > > > > > 7 5 2 4 10
> > > > > >
> > > > > > With the upper numbers being the nuts under the rocker arms.
> > Cheers.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Art Kelly
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > James A. Ruffner
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
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