Graham
Are saying crack all the nuts loose? or each one in sequence then work back
up through 5 or 6 progressively higher values to 105 lbs? (yes, that the
spec.) on that nut?
Jerry Oliver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Stretch" <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: Tr4 Head studs
>
> Hi Jerry
> Yes crack the nuts loose before retorquing, yes retorque head when warm,
use
> the same value, these are the rules for my cylinder heads though I don't
> have a TR4, also I would recommend a retorque after about the first 1000
> miles. 105 lbft? TR4's use bolts that will hold 105 lbft? That makes the
> 60-65 lbft on my cars look a bit lame!
>
> Graham.
> 2.5 PI MKII
> Sprinted Dolomite
> 2000 MKI
> Toledo
> 1300 Front Wheel Drive
>
> http://www.triumph-iw.co.uk
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Oliver" <slantws@Home.com>
> To: "triumphs list" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 5:51 AM
> Subject: Fw: Tr4 Head studs
>
>
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jerry Oliver" <slantws@Home.com>
> > To: <erl@unix.mail.virginia.edu>
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 9:30 PM
> > Subject: Re: Tr4 Head studs
> >
> >
> > > Ok, I heard one recently that I hadn't heard before. That is, when
> > > retorquing to break each nut loose as you proceed through the
> sequence.
> > > Any opinions? Also, as I was thumbing through a TR maintenance manual
at
> > VTR
> > > Portland last week, the book listed 105 lbs and the typical sequence
and
> > > then suggested retorquing the head warm, but gave no value. I have
> > retorqued
> > > cold.
> > > Jerry Oliver
> > > Olympia, WA
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <erl@unix.mail.virginia.edu>
> > > To: <ArthurK101@aol.com>
> > > Cc: <greenman62@hotmail.com>; <kluckvon@students.uiuc.edu>;
> > > <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:26 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Tr4 Head studs
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > There is no sacro-sanct rule on the head sequencing to torque the
> head.
> > > > Basic rule, stated here: start in the center, and work as a spiral
> > > > outwards to the end. Try to keep the same pattern. Take the studs
to
> > > > about 50 ft-lb, then upwards at about 10 ft-lb per step, until about
> 90
> > > > ft-lb. Then in 5 ft-lb increments until the 105-110 level. After
you
> > get
> > > > to about 70 ft-lb, you want to use a lead or brass mallet and hit
the
> > head
> > > > on the end, a stout whack, after each torquing. If you don't have
the
> > > > mallet, you can use a steel hammer, but put a piece of wood (oak is
> > best)
> > > > between. This relieves stresses in the head.
> > > >
> > > > On Tue, 8 Aug 2000
> > > > ArthurK101@aol.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > In a message dated 07-Aug-00 17:57:36 Eastern Daylight Time,
> > > > > greenman62@hotmail.com writes:
> > > > >
> > > > > > You could do it numerically... I don't have my book handy either
> > > > > > however, the trick is to start with the nuts in the middle of
> the
> > > > > > head (between 2 and 3 cylinders) and work outward to either
end
> > of
> > > > > > the head it's kind of like a spiral. I'll try to do you a
> picture
> > > > > > (see below)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 8 6 1 3 9
> > > > > > 10 4 2 5 7
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I hope it doesn't get too scrambled...
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Greg, that is not the same as either my Haynes or the Factory
manual
> > > shows.
> > > > > My Haynes manual (p.27 fig1.7) and the latter (p.1-127 fig.59)
both
> > > show:
> > > > >
> > > > > 9 3 1 6 8
> > > > > 7 5 2 4 10
> > > > >
> > > > > With the upper numbers being the nuts under the rocker arms.
> Cheers.
> > > > >
> > > > > Art Kelly
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > James A. Ruffner
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
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