Technically, the springs are not "handed"; the same spring will work for either
side. Rather, the right spring has a small extra plate installed just under the
axle, on top of the spring. This effectively lowers the body on the passengers
side by about 1/4" (I had to think about that for a minute). I imagine this is
to compensate for the car carrying only the driver for much of its life.
BTW, Pat, each pad is 1/8" thick, so your 1/2" wood block is pretty close to the
maximum 4 pads per outrigger supplied with the body mounting kit from TRF (the
rubber pads will compress just a tad).
DRSkruffy@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/25/00 9:26:12 PM !!!First Boot!!!, Gbouff1 writes:
>
> << "Level" as far as I am concerned is similar to the expression " beauty is
> in the eye of the beholder". Strictly a visual, if it looks level it is
> level. If your frame is not quite true and you adjust the body to the
> reference of the frame, the body will be technically level but appear to sag
> or look a little off. Also remember that the rear springs are "handed" (at
> least on mine) so the drivers side will sit a little taller than the
> passenger side until you sit in the car.
> >>
>
> Sounds good. I was of the opinion that you started with a couple pads on each
> and added/subtracted as needed until it looked "right."
>
> I have also heard people say they can be used to get the door openings to the
> correct width. This makes sense as well.
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