Roger:
I completely agree with Bob Labuz and others that the problem could well be
the restrictor value sticking. I believe that they are NOS and the old ones
are usually bad also. I had the problem with my TR4 a number of years ago
and was surprised to hear that you are having this problem with a TR3 since
I didn't think these valves were on 3's. May have been added.
To add one more note to the discussion, I just had a similar problem with
the right rear brake locking at very slow speeds. Usually happened as the
car was just coming to a stop with light pressure on the pedal. The wheel
would lock and then drag when I tried to pull away. The problem is a
leaking rear seal that has soaked the shoes in oil. The build-up of grease,
which you would think would allow the shoe to slide, actually does the
opposite and bonds with the drum and locks the wheel. A cleaning with brake
cleaner solves the problem temporarily, but I will need new shoes. (Anyone
have an old set of 10" shoes?)
I know this isn't your problem, but is another way that brakes can lock.
Paul g. Wiegman
1956 TR3
Glenshaw, PA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Bob Labuz
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 6:58 PM
To: Roger Colson
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Brake binding problem
Roger,
I would venture to guess that your master cylinder is not adjusted
correctly, or
your "restrictor valve" is mal-functioning. You should only have only a
slight
drip when a bleed screw is loosened until the restrictor valve spring
releases
its pressure and fluid. Your rotors should spin with ease while the tire is
attached only a slight pad rubbing. The restricter valve keeps some pressure
on
the pads so you dont have to pump up to get the pads in initial contact with
the
rotor. I see the restrictor valve is N/A at moss and trf but you may find
one at
one of the places that sells used stuff. I have never taken one apart but it
looks like it can be dis-assembled.
Check them out.
Bob Labuz
1958 TR3A
1974 T140V
Roger Colson wrote:
> Hello fellow listers,
>
> I am now able to drive my TR3 under it's own power. Spent most of the
> morning adjusting the mixture. Some first timer mistakes slowed me
> down.
>
> A major problem is that I believe the brakes appear to be locking up
> after a short trip. After about 200 feet they start to bind and then
shortly
> there after the engine bogs down trying to move the car. After waiting
> the car will roll again but then go through the same routine. Last time I
> noticed that the brake pedal was hard, so I looked and the brake lights
> were on. So I opened one of the caliper bleeders and a small amount of
> brake fluif spouted out. I was then able to get the car back in the
> garage.
>
> The brakes have been done over this winter. New master cylinder.
> rebuilt calipers. SS pistons. New pads. SS hardlines. SS braided
> hoses. New rear cylinders. New rear shoes. The rotors were fine, with
> lots of metal left, and the drums were like new.
>
> What I would like help with is in trying to diagnose and repair this
> problem.
>
> What would cause the brake pressure to build up? Several times I did
> not even touch the brake pedal.
>
> What I plan on checking is:
>
> What appears to be rubbing.
> Could the pads be too thick? The rotors were hardly worn. The pads
> were a little snug when installing.
>
> Could the caliper be off center? Forcing one pad to always be in
> contact.
>
> I will re-check the rear brake adjustment.
>
> As I write this message I am thinking of more things to check.
>
> Is there freedom of movement in the hand brake pawls with the hand
> brake off?
>
> If I need to, I will pull the rotor and have it checked for truth.
>
> I won't be able to get to the car until Tuesday evening. So I can read
> responses sent directly to the list in the list digest.
>
> Thank you,
> Roger
> Hoping to make it to the show Fathers Day.
>
> Roger Colson
> 57 TR3 TS21383L
> sassamon@mediaone.net
> http://people.ne.mediaone.net/sassamon/TS21383L
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