I'm fixing to be in the same shape you are. I'm having problems with the
front carb on my 71 TR6 running very rich. I've tried to adjust it leaner,
but the plugs still end up very black. I have another set of carbs and I
was going to try changing the air valve to see if that helps. Please info
me on all replies you get. I'm not sure if the air valves are
interchangeable or not, but I hope so.
Thanks,
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Jacobsen-Watts
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 8:24 AM
To: 'Triumph Digest List'
Subject: ZenithStromberg adj. needle carb and adjusting screw causes
problem.
Listers:
Are Zenith Stromberg air valves (the piston w/ the adj. needle in it)
interchangeable between carbs? What do the numbers in the air valves mean
(12, or 13)?
There is some useful content in this mail, but mostly I'm kicking myself.
Car ('74 TR6) ran beautifully, dwell/timing/carbsynch etc. spot on, but
running lean as evidenced by lifting air valve in carb (~1/4") and noting
severe drop in idle. PO had stripped the hex head (not threads) in adjusting
screw for needle, so I pulled both air valves and set needles manually by
sight such that needle delrin washer flush with bottom of air valve when I
rebuilt the carbs 5 years back. To remedy this problem, I purchased a used
air valve complete with adjusting screw and spider washer inside. Put my
original adjusting needle into this used air valve and adjusted needle
height to match other "good" carb in the car.
The result? Horrible running condition. I am now in the process of going
back over everything. My question is are air valves matched to bodies, and
should they never be separated? Only difference, other than air valve, is
that I am now putting the carb suction covers back on "correctly", so that
the rib on the suction cover body sits towards the air cleaners, as per pix
in the Bentley manual.
Thanks in advance for you replies,
John
johnw@wrq.com
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