Scott, I've separated a couple of these in recent months and have yet to be
able to do it without destroying the silentbloc bush itself. Last time, all
I did was push the pickle fork between the tie rod and drop arm/idler arm
and pry. No hammers...just bare hands. What this did, in both cases was
separate the cheapa$$ silentbloc (washer from the center pin to which it was
riveted) thereby destroying it!
Then, just remove the center tie rod with the tapered pin still in the drop
arm or idler. You should then be able to get some sort of tie rod puller in
there to push out the tapered pin. I have one I bought from JC Whitney for
$10 or so (too large to squeeze between the tie rod and drop arm, but once
the tie rod's out of the way...)
Installed two Moss silentblocs last summer and tried to remove them a couple
of months ago. Seems to me they shouldn't have broken apart so easily -
these are steering parts, after all. When I put it all back together, I used
Revington's stainless and bronze units. More expensive, but should result in
tighter steering, be MUCH more substantial than the rubber sleeved crap that
split apart - and hopefully, the next time I take them apart, I'll even be
able to re-use them. 'Course, it probably won't be nearly so easy to split
apart. :^)
Just my .02...Good luck.
Michael Ferguson
1959 TR3A TS53990L
----------
>From: "Westerdale, Bob" <bwesterdale@edax.com>
>To: "'Bob Labuz'" <yellowtr@borg.com>, scott weldin <sweldin@mail.ups.edu>
>Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: TR-3 steering
>Date: Tue, Apr 18, 2000, 4:50 PM
>
>
> FWIW Dept:
> Be careful with Pickle Forks and impact devices (e.g. Air hammers,
> BFH's, etc..) when you are separating these joints. Remember that in most
> cases, the only part of the steering linkage which is actually 'anchored' is
> the guts in your steering box. As you pound away, much of the force is
> translated to those bits, which I suspect are actually made out of cheese.
> It doesn't take too much whackin' to do some $erious damage to these bits.
> Wherever possible, brace the steering linkage so at least some of the force
> is directed away from the box. As the saying goes, Ask me how I know
> this.....
> Regards,
> Bob Westerdale
> TS36967E
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Labuz [mailto:yellowtr@borg.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2000 4:24 PM
> To: scott weldin
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: TR-3 steering
>
>
>
> Scott,
>
> A suitable lever would be a "pickle" bar. I hope i spelled it correctly.
> This
> bar is kind of like a two tooth fork where the teeth are wedge shaped to
> give
> you the leverage. Place the forked end between the arm and the gaitor and
> hit
> with a hammer. The wedge action will separate the tie-rod from drop arm. If
> you use this bar, be carefull not to damage the rubber gaitor portion of the
> tie-rod end. You should be able to get a pickle bar at any auto supply shop.
> Bob Labuz
> 1958 TR3A
> 1974 T140V
>
> scott weldin wrote:
>
>> I'm having the devil's own time removing the center tie-rod from my 1958
>> TR-3A. I have removed the nyloc nuts attaching the center tie-rod to the
>> idler arm, the drop arm and both right and left tie-rods, but I can't get
>> either right or left tie-rod loose from the center.
>>
>> My original service manual suggests "utilising a suitable lever" but
>> doesn't hint if that might be a six inch screwdriver or a six foot Johnson
>> bar. And I'm not sure what to pry against. Does the tapered end of the
>> inner end assembly just press into the end of the center tie-rod? I'm
>> reluctant to apply too much force without a clearer picture of what I'm
>> doing. Any help would be much appreciated.
>>
>> Scott Weldin
>> 1958 TR-3A
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