On the subject of Tach Drive Gears, I believe (and if I am wrong, I'm sure
somebody will tell me so) that the ones used in the Spitfire Delco distributor
are the same. I have a couple of distributor bodies that still have that
precious gear intact.
Anybody want to start a bidding war for there precious commodities???
Joe
Bob Lang wrote:
>
> On Tue, 11 Apr 2000 Aribert_Neumann@magna.on.ca wrote:
>
> > If your old dist still has a functioning tach drive gear and it is
> > available for sale, I would be interested in purchasing it (actually you
> > could keep the dist as a paper weight if you were willing to pull out and
> > sell the tach drive gear).
>
> I cc'd back to the triumphs list - this is probably of interest there...
>
> Ummm... sorry. No tach drives available.
>
> > As a side note, why is the Mallory unit superior - could a stock dist
> > be recurved and get similiar results? FWIW, I am using a Crane 700 series
> > for ignition purposes and so dual point capablity is of no use to me.
>
> You _could_ recurve a stock dizzy, but the Mallory unit has stiffer
> springs, and you can recurve it by loosening two screws and moving a
> plate to get more curve. In other words it's way more adjustable than the
> Lucas 22D.
>
> On the Lucas unit, you have to either grind the advance plate or replace
> it with another one. But all the ones I've taken apart are limited to 12
> degrees of advance, so there _may_ be issues in finding advance plates
> with more then 12 degrees of advance... I might want a bit more than that
> with my race car.
>
> But the bottom line as regards to the Mallory dizzy - it's made very
> well. There is no ground strap wire to break, and the connection from the
> dizzy housing to the points is done with "real wire", not that braided
> little flexible stuff in the Lucas unit. If you've played with these cars
> very much, you've no doubt seen/heard of folks whose cars quit completely
> and the reason is the freakin' little wire. YUCK!
>
> If you're dead set on electronic ignition, there is an electronic thingie
> you can put in the Mallory unit to make it not use points. If I get my
> motor to run in the 7000 to 8000 RPM range, I'll look into that unit, but
> if I'm going up that high in the revs, I'll probably convert to
> Electromotive or other crank-triggered ignition.
>
> There's a wide variety of methods that you can use to solve ignition
> problems on these cars.
>
> But that begs the question: why are you dead-set on getting your
> mechanical tach to work when you're using electronic ignition? Why don't
> you convert your tach to an electronic tach?? Seeing that the dizzy drive
> gears appear to made from "unobtanium", you should seek alternatives.
>
> Me - I _need_ the tach. So I have to have something that'll work.
> Ideally, I would have obtained a Mallory unit with tach drive, but I've
> been having problems tracking one down. In the mean time, the AutoMeter
> 8000 RPM tach should do the trick.
>
> Entreprenuer item of the day: tach drive gears for TR6's that have Lucas
> 22D dizzys. Anyone that made these should be able to sell a million of
> them. Well, at least 500 or so.
>
> ;-)
> rml
>
> p.s. have you looked into cam-driven tach gears from Pegasus or the other
> racing shops?? If you want mechanical tach accuracy - then the cam-driven
> solution might work for you. Of course "some fabrication would be required".
>
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