On Tue, 11 Apr 2000 Aribert_Neumann@magna.on.ca wrote:
> If your old dist still has a functioning tach drive gear and it is
> available for sale, I would be interested in purchasing it (actually you
> could keep the dist as a paper weight if you were willing to pull out and
> sell the tach drive gear).
I cc'd back to the triumphs list - this is probably of interest there...
Ummm... sorry. No tach drives available.
> As a side note, why is the Mallory unit superior - could a stock dist
> be recurved and get similiar results? FWIW, I am using a Crane 700 series
> for ignition purposes and so dual point capablity is of no use to me.
You _could_ recurve a stock dizzy, but the Mallory unit has stiffer
springs, and you can recurve it by loosening two screws and moving a
plate to get more curve. In other words it's way more adjustable than the
Lucas 22D.
On the Lucas unit, you have to either grind the advance plate or replace
it with another one. But all the ones I've taken apart are limited to 12
degrees of advance, so there _may_ be issues in finding advance plates
with more then 12 degrees of advance... I might want a bit more than that
with my race car.
But the bottom line as regards to the Mallory dizzy - it's made very
well. There is no ground strap wire to break, and the connection from the
dizzy housing to the points is done with "real wire", not that braided
little flexible stuff in the Lucas unit. If you've played with these cars
very much, you've no doubt seen/heard of folks whose cars quit completely
and the reason is the freakin' little wire. YUCK!
If you're dead set on electronic ignition, there is an electronic thingie
you can put in the Mallory unit to make it not use points. If I get my
motor to run in the 7000 to 8000 RPM range, I'll look into that unit, but
if I'm going up that high in the revs, I'll probably convert to
Electromotive or other crank-triggered ignition.
There's a wide variety of methods that you can use to solve ignition
problems on these cars.
But that begs the question: why are you dead-set on getting your
mechanical tach to work when you're using electronic ignition? Why don't
you convert your tach to an electronic tach?? Seeing that the dizzy drive
gears appear to made from "unobtanium", you should seek alternatives.
Me - I _need_ the tach. So I have to have something that'll work.
Ideally, I would have obtained a Mallory unit with tach drive, but I've
been having problems tracking one down. In the mean time, the AutoMeter
8000 RPM tach should do the trick.
Entreprenuer item of the day: tach drive gears for TR6's that have Lucas
22D dizzys. Anyone that made these should be able to sell a million of
them. Well, at least 500 or so.
;-)
rml
p.s. have you looked into cam-driven tach gears from Pegasus or the other
racing shops?? If you want mechanical tach accuracy - then the cam-driven
solution might work for you. Of course "some fabrication would be required".
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent.
Consultant MIT Computer Services |
Voice: (617)253-7438 FAX: (617)258-9535 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|