I've had a similar problem in the past due to the inhibitor switch
you mention. The button on the switch which is pushed by a cam when
you are in third or fourth gear will wear over time and reach a
point where activation is intermittant. I was able to buy a little
time initially by removing a thin washer between the switch and the top
of the tranny. If you are desperate you can disconnect the two leads
from the switch and short them together. The problem with this is
that the OD can be activated in any gear if you leave the "engage" switch
on. It is just an invonvenience if you try to take off in first that
way, but I'm told it can be DISASTROUS if you try reverse with the
OD activated. I have been able to get to the leads to the inhibitor
switch from the engine compartment of my Spitfire (without having to
remove the tunnel) to connect them to a jumper just to see if the OD
works with the switch bypassed. It wasn't easy, but with a small
mirror and needle nosed pliers, it was doable. It was even harder to
get the leads back onto the switch after doing the test though.
I have a problem currently where the OD works fine until after about
an hour of driving. Then it sometimes disengages and refuses to
reactivate when I use the switch. I have tried emptying the tranny
of the GL5 gear oil I put in a couple of summers ago and replacing
it with Valvoline Racing 20W50. But no luck. In cleaning out the
filter in the bottom of the OD unit before the recent refilling, I
found about a half inch of a chewed up O-ring. I think THAT has been
the real problem. I suspect that this may have been due to
carelessness by the shop that did a rebuild for me several years ago,
but who knows?
Now for a related question. So far I haven't had to replace the
activating solenoid which now goes for about $160, but someday it
will probably give out. Does anyone know of a suitable replacement?
Yesterday I was looking at an interesting catalog that has many
mechanical and electronic parts, and there were a couple of pages of
of solenoids, several of the 12v variety with cylindrical shape. The
average cost was about $10. Wouldn't it be great if one of those would
work? Does anyone know the actual dimensions and travel distance of
the J-type OD solenoid?
Tim Gaines
Clinton, SC
1980 Spitfire
1974 TR6
>The frame off is complete...pretty much...and took the TR6 for a couple of
>test drives. I am a little concerned because the overdrive tends to
>disengage every now and then periodically. If I wait a few secons and
>re-engage it it usually works for awhile.
>
>This does not happen when I hit bumps or anything...and I am pretty sure
>that all the connections are tight.
>
>Also, during the frameoff I replaced the solenoid, all the wiring, and the
>switch into the steering column. The only thing I didn't replace is the
>pressure switch located on top of the transmission.
>
>Right before the frameoff I had the overdrive rebuilt entirely b/c it had
>blown somehow. I am wondering if the mechanic did a faulty job on the
>rebuild...or is this definately some kind of electrical problem.
>
>Needless to say I am not quite the happy camper I hoped to be because I
>spent a whole heap of money on this thing and it is less then perfect.
>Any advice or support would be appreciated.
|