Lee, I have been told to go with the "closed" needle roller bearing
design, and a new layshaft. When the "closed" bearing fails, it will probably
NOT destroy the layshaft ($$). In my "spare" transmission the layshaft
was demolished by a roller bearing failure. Wore right through the
shiny hardened surface and delaminated some of the surface. Looks interesting.
As for the thrust washers: is there room for a fancy "roller" type that you say
Rimmer
describes? If so, that sounds good, and tell me more about this, since I am
not familiar
with it!
Also, you need to consider the "top hat" (second gear)
bushing. The brass (tr2-early6) ones always break The steel 2-piece ones are
tough, but
will not fit the earlier mainshaft. We are experimenting with the newer design
(2-piece), but
in brass (i.e. cut 2 bushings to make a single (properly fitting) 2-piece unit.
Ought to work
just as well as the steel one (once available in a size for the TR2-TR4 box).
-Tony
>Message text written by INTERNET:triumphs-owner@autox.team.net
>>Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 08:27:03 -0700
>From: "Janssen, Lee K" <lee.k.janssen@lmco.com>
>Subject: TR 4, TR250, TR 6 transmission countershaft madness
>
>
>I recall reading a number of different approaches to solving the self
>destruction of the countershaft / needle bearings / countershaft reverse and
>first gear, as usual I forgot to save any of these threads to I'll just try
>to summarize what I recall:
>
>a) replacement of the open cage needle bearing with a bronze bushing,
>b) replacement of the open cage needle bearing with a sleeve-type needle
>bearing (from The Roadster Factory catalog),
>c) in the words of Revington TR "additional bearing added to the lay gear,
>lay gear drilled to act as oil pump for lay shaft, thrust washers replaced
>with roller thrusts",
>d) use of stock materials with the exception of the countershaft which is
>replaced with a hardened steel rod (Rockwell 60?),'
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