Tony,
I've puzzled over this. Since the mainshaft is moving back with
the tail housing, it seems that the rear bearing may be seized to the
shaft. Does this bearing move back with the tail housing? The shop
manual indicates that you have to drive a new bearing in after
re-installing the main shaft, so I infer that the bearing is pressed
into the housing. Have you considered cutting the bearing out?
A little tricky since you don't want to bung up the mainshaft.
If you could get the balls out of the bearing, it could not hold
the mainshaft in. The bearing I'm refering to is part no. 37 in the
shop manual, no. 38 in the Moss catalog.
At 10:51 PM 7/5/99 -0400, Tony Rhodes wrote:
>
>Message text written by "Brian Sanborn"
>>Follow the Haynes step-by-step. I used a rubber mallet... whacking real
>>hard on the "wings" of the tailshaft casing. Takes a long time. During
>>the rebuild I must have done this 3 times. I would get it all back
>>together and notice that something was backwards or not right.
><
>
>Still no luck on getting it off. I have a BFRH (R for Rubber), but it did
not
>budge. The tail housing moved about 3/8" rearward and stopped there. The
>strange broken metal fragment is from the "keeper plate" holding the
>countershaft. That needs replacement. I really whacked the ears of the
>tail housing. After whacking, I found that the gears would not spin anymore,
>and then traced it down to the fact that the entire shaft was moving to the
>rear with the housing. I then pushed the shaft back where is is supposed
>to be, and I lost 1/4" of the 3/8" of total tail housing motion.
>
>I am really hitting it hard. I even installed long studs in the bolt holes
>to keep the tail housing lined up properly. No good.
>
>It almost seems like there IS a circlip hiding somewhere I can't see
retaining
>the tail housing on the tailshaft, as the Haynes manaul says there is (but
>no diagram shows). I am about to give up and go to a pro for this and
>other "special" maneuvers remove the tough parts. Then I can do the rest.
>
>The synchros look OK, the gear teeth are OK, the 2-3 end float is way high.
>Seems like a standard refurbishing job. May not even need some of the
>expensive synchro rings/hubs, just bushings and bearings. The ball bearings
>at the ends seem fine too....
>
>-Tony (with sore wrists from bashing the transmission)
>
>
Cliff Hansen
chansen@access1.net
1966 TR-4A CTC 64615L
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