About 3 weeks ago my 71 GT-6 lost front parking/marker lights. About a
week later I discovered that the dash lights were out also. At this time
the rear tail/side marker lights were still functioning. A few days ago I
also lost tail/rear marker lights. THe car was now definitely broke enough
to fix. Problem was fuse related. Here is the puzzlement: My Bently
manual calls for a 35 amp fuse for all three circuits. Since only the
running lights (no headlights, no aux. feeds) are on the center fuse, I
derated to a 10 amp fuse (years ago) with out any problems until now. THe
cause of my light failure was that the fuse box ( secifically the plastic
tab that supports the clip (that the wires are crimped to) that in turn
contacts the fuse) had MELTED and the plastic had actually flowed between
the fuse and the clip. Since the system was spec'ed for a 35 amp fuse, why
would it get warm enough to melt the plastic with only a 10 amp fuse. BTW,
the 10 amp fuse is still funtional. My only guess is that the 10 amp fuse
is defective. I scraped the melted plastic off of the clip and inserted a
35 amp fuse (and a sliver of wood between the clip and the melted plastic
tab to provide good electrical contact between the clip and the fuse) and
the electical system is funtioning well. One last bit of info - my engine
compartment is very hot - 2.5L and headers. I do not think this has
anything to do with the melted fuse box, but a few weeks ago after being
stuck in first gear traffic for about a 1/2 hour, I noticed a stream of
heat entering thru the fire wall. I removed my sandal and when traffic
sped up I searched for the cause with my bare left foot. THe source of the
heat was a loose rubber boot on the clutch linkage and the result was a
foot that got lightly burnt from the hot air and that was tender for the
next hour.
Speculation as to why the fuse box melted and suggestions on how to trouble
shoot a system that appears to be ok
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