In a message dated 2/25/99 8:36:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
randallyoung@earthlink.net writes:
> 3) I took an easier way : using the headlights as a test load, I used "cut
> and try" to get a 50% reading. Since the factory ammeter is a simple
> "moving vane" type, it has a few turns of fairly heavy copper wire. So, an
> inch or so of 12 gauge copper should get you pretty close. In my case, I
> used steel baling wire (22 gauge ?) that was handy, and added multiple
> strands to get the ratio I wanted. Two strands were pretty close, and
> that's what I use. By the time I was finished, the battery was run down
> enough to see that the full alternator output just about moved the needle
> to the 30 mark.
Randall,
That's the "lab" method I was looking for! That should be do-able at home.
You're right, it doesn't matter what the actual current is, just keep working
till the reading is reduced in half, whatever it was.
> 4) I can't see that the exact ammeter reading is of any real value anyway.
> As long as the maximum current is near the limit of the meter, who cares
> if it's 40 amps or 80 amps ? The important thing is that the reading is
> near zero, except when charging the battery (or running those pesky horns
> <g>)
Agreed, as long as it's not TOO far off.
> BTW, does Alcoa TN have anything to do with the ALuminum COmpany of
America?
Yup! At one time, this was a "company" town. It has grown to the point that
Alcoa is no longer the dominate employer, but they still have a pretty good
presence here. Their size still keeps my property taxes down.
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
http://members.aol.com/danmas/
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition - slated for a V8 soon
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
|