I recently went through the same thing. After a couple weeks of soaking I
had a stud that wouldn't budge. I went and got a 3 foot pipe to put on the
end of the ratchet and doing that with the double nuts took it off in about
a couple of minutes. So don't give up!
Dave Moag
77 Spitfire
62 TR3B
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jeff Nathanson
> Sent: Monday, February 08, 1999 10:22 PM
> To: rdowty@iso.net
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Head stud rusted into head on TR6
>
>
>
>
> Ron,
>
> I had the same problem, but it was actually carbon
> build-up that seemed
> to weld the stud the the block. I tried all the
> things you might
> have tried
> like lubricants, WD-40. etc. It did no good. I
> finally got some stud
> removers
> and used a 3 foot hollow pipe that fit around the
> ratchet. Yes, I needed
> that much torque to remove it. In fact, I went through 2 stud
> removers - the
> first (7/16")just stripped off the threads, then a
> 10mm was able to
> tightly
> grip the stud and if finally came off.
>
> Jeff Nathanson '72 TR6
>
> >
> >At 10:57 PM 2/8/99 -0600, you wrote:
> >>
> >>I have had this problem before but last time the engine was
> out of the car
> >>and I actually spun the head to remove the stud from the
> block then beat the
> >>damn thing with a big hammer until it came out. This time
> I'm not planning
> >>to pull the whole motor, just the head and the same stud
> (the one closest to
> >>the water pump) is rusted tight into the block. I've tried
> using two nuts
> >>with no luck. All I can think to do now is drill a hole
> through the stud and
> >>stuck a bar through it and crank on it. Does anyone have a
> better idea?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
> Jeff C. Nathanson
> Director of Product Development
> Manufacturing Systems & Technologies, Inc.
>
> Web Site: WWW.MSYSTECH.COM
>
>
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