Have you tried a thread on style of stud puller vs. the cam lock style? The
unit has a threaded/slotted collar, which is threaded onto the stud. The you
tighten the outside sleeve (which looks like a deep socket) around the
collar. The threads on the collar grip the stud, causing no damage, and
allowing removal. The 3" pipe may still be required!
Bob Kramer, Austin TX
Hill Country Triumph Club
TR6's, TR250's, TR3A vintage race
rgk@flash.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Nathanson <jeffn@msystech.com>
To: rdowty@iso.net <rdowty@iso.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 12:29 AM
Subject: Re: Head stud rusted into head on TR6
>
>
>Ron,
>
> I had the same problem, but it was actually carbon build-up that
seemed
> to weld the stud the the block. I tried all the things you might
>have tried
> like lubricants, WD-40. etc. It did no good. I finally got some
stud
>removers
> and used a 3 foot hollow pipe that fit around the ratchet. Yes, I
needed
> that much torque to remove it. In fact, I went through 2 stud
>removers - the
> first (7/16")just stripped off the threads, then a 10mm was able to
>tightly
> grip the stud and if finally came off.
>
> Jeff Nathanson '72 TR6
>
>>
>>At 10:57 PM 2/8/99 -0600, you wrote:
>>>
>>>I have had this problem before but last time the engine was out of the
car
>>>and I actually spun the head to remove the stud from the block then beat
the
>>>damn thing with a big hammer until it came out. This time I'm not
planning
>>>to pull the whole motor, just the head and the same stud (the one closest
to
>>>the water pump) is rusted tight into the block. I've tried using two nuts
>>>with no luck. All I can think to do now is drill a hole through the stud
and
>>>stuck a bar through it and crank on it. Does anyone have a better idea?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>Jeff C. Nathanson
>Director of Product Development
>Manufacturing Systems & Technologies, Inc.
>
>Web Site: WWW.MSYSTECH.COM
>
>
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