John
You can drill and tap your TR4 flywheel to allow the diaphragm clutch
to
fit. You also have to shorten the gearbox front cover sleeve by
3/8inch. I
did mine - its a better clutch and it doesn't stick when I leave it over
the
winter. You also need a different clutch release (throwout) bearing If
you want to know how I did it -then mail me off the list as I think I
have described the process before.
Cheers
Brian Johnson
Internet bjohnson@mmm.com (work) or b.johnson@diamond.co.uk(home)
1963 TR4 AFP503A / IZS 733(USA) - CT27216-L (now not L but O ) ex USA
1954 TR2 46 BHX TS554-O UK Car
1989 Vauxhall Cavalier 2.0 GLI
John Middlesworth wrote:
> I've read that there are advantages to fitting a diaphram clutch (as used
> in a TR4A to a TR3). Are the advantages in longevity or performance?
>
> My own situation is the following: I'm working on a late TR3A (TS78922L)
> and I think I could fit a TR4A flywheel and clutch and be done with the
> issue. What I have on hand is a the TR3A flywheel and a TR4 flywheel, but
> I think neither of those can be fitted with a 4A clutch, right?
>
> Part of the advantage of the later clutch would appear to be cost. I can
> now get a 4A 3-in-one Borg and Beck clutch kit from V-B for $119.95. It
> then seems like the smartest thing for me to do is find a 4A flywheel. Am
> I missing something in this plan?
>
> John Middlesworth
>
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