Robert M. Lang wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'll bet you got other responses... hopefully there's nothing new here.
> But, what the heck.
>
> If you add DCOE 40's to a TR6 and then add:
>
> Header - this is a must. Free-flow exhaust helps too. Do you like to talk
> to your passenger when driving? If so - use caution with what you select
> for a free flow exhaust. Net HP gain - not too much.
>
> Electronic ignition - this is a must. You won't be able to get the car to
> run very well without it. At a min. use the Crane $100 unit. For more
> spark, try the Hi-6 or whatever it's called. Net HP gain - not too much. If
> you want true total tunability - then go for the Electromotive unit. That's
> not very streetable, though.
>
> Port Match - this is most def. worthwhile. I think I got something like 10%
> increase in airflow on my car. Really.
>
> Air Cleaner/Air Box - you should do this. Cold/cooler air is better for
> combustion. Plus you won't get wierd vapor lock or gas boil over in the
> carbs. Net HP gain - not much but you will get more reliability.
>
> At this point, you're talking about 120/125 HP with the stock cam. We're
> assuming you have a "federal US spec" cam here.
>
> Now - spend some real money.
>
> First, drop the fan and put in an electric. Net gain, about 6 - 8 HP.
>
> Pull the motor and yank out the crank. Get the thing dynamically balanced.
> Get the journals micro polished. Check the rods and balance/recondition.
> Got some extra cash? Bore that baby out to .030 or .040 over. Assemble,
> measure and take apart - get block "decked". You now have "reference" to
> calculate the total size of the combustion chamber. Once you reassemble,
> you'll have gained a little bit of HP because of the balance - but you're
> ready to build some power.
>
> You've now laid out about $2k, more or less. Maybe a bit more.
>
> Now, take the head to a good head shop. If they don't know what a TR6 is,
> go elsewhere. And as you may have guessed - we're now ready to free some HP
> from your motor. Get the head crack checked - no sense doing any work on
> this puppy if its cracked!
>
> Next step - mill the head. Go to no more then 9.5 : 1 for a streetable
> motor. Unless you have a fuel truck that can chase you around with some
> Avgas to refill from. You might be able to get away with 10:1, but if you
> aren't careful about where you fill up, you'll be sorry!
>
> This will net you some HP, maybe another 10 or so.
>
> Now you need a cam. The PI cam is something like .340 lift at the valve and
> 290 degrees of duration. With this setup, you're talking about 150 HP.
> There's a lot of grinds available that give more like .400 lift (the S2 or
> the Isky X19 grinds, for example) that don't go into the lumpy idle range
> of above 290 duration.
>
> Need more?
>
> Get the valves ground with a three angle valve grind. You have a new cam
> and the head is milled, so you need to do some work - might as well shorten
> the pushrods (you need tubular pushrods for this) to get the geometry
> right. And, you have some loss in HP with all that weight up there - let's
> get some roller rockers. Ah! Things are freeing up. A bit more HP, but
> it'll wind up a lot easier.
>
> Need more? Get the head flowed. Re-shape the combustion chambers a bit,
> change to bronze valve guides... maybe stainless valves, just for laughs.
>
> At this point, you'll have spent 3 or 4 thousand $$$ total, but a real good
> head job might cost you another $1000 or more. A lot more if you go to a
> well known shop. If you're not doing a lot of the work yourself, figure
> another $1000 or so. Labor is expensive.
>
> Need more? You better not. If you do, you'll be inching into real race
> motor territory. And you're car will not be streetable.
>
> That having been said, there are a lot of TR6's out there with motors in
> the 150 - 165 HP range (flywheel HP) that are pretty reliable. Once you get
> up into the 175 and higher range, you're going to give up a lot of
> reliability and also the streetability of the motor. Plus, once you get
> above 150 or so, you should think about super tough rods. And if want real
> reliable, how about a billet crank?? Figure another $3 - $4k for Carillo
> rods and the crank. Oh, might as well get forged pistons at this stage...
>
> One option if to get a motor completely built by someone else that you can
> just drop in. I know that Richard Good will do this, and I'm sure there are
> others. Hey, you live in CA, give Huffaker a call.
>
> The sky's the limit! You could spend $10 - 15K on a motor without really
> trying too hard. Really.
>
> BTW - you can get a lot of the HP gain without the Webers.
>
> But they look great. (Hi Don S.)
>
> C ya,
> rml
> TR6's
> p.s. gotta go work on the rods some more... I'm looking to get 160 HP from
> my car. It'll not be streetable. If the 160 HP works out and I get the car
> dialed in and reliable - then I'm going to go for the 180+ range. Yes, I'm
> sick. ;-)
Don't forget to have the flywheel lightened! You can safely take 1/4 to 1/3 of
the
total weight off the backside of the flywheel. (22 lbs stock - 17 lbs.
lightened)
Reducing rotating inertia is the biggest boost in acceleration for your buck
without
causing the stress of other engine internal mods such as raising compression.
Regards,
Brian Schlorff '61 TR-4 '64 TR-4 '72 TR-6 '79 Spit
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