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Re: TR6: Fun w/oil gauge feed

To: <vitesse@juno.com>, <msecrest@erols.com>
Subject: Re: TR6: Fun w/oil gauge feed
From: "Lawrence R Zink" <zink@pdq.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 10:57:13 -0600charset="iso-8859-1"
Cc: <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
HI, y'all,

Well if I might interject a thought on the replacing the capillary tube on
the oil sender/gauge.  The plastic tubing must be heated in boiling water
for a couple of minutes than immediately forced over the barb.  Which
entails having the boiling water by the car during the process, not the most
ideal place for boiling water.  But, I prefer using compression/ferrule
style fittings on these applications.  Mainly because it doesn't jeprodize
the structural integrity of the tubing.  And, as Hugh has suggested, unless
you are going for a concourse queen,  why risk the chance of spraying hot
oil either in the engine bay or worse yet, in the cockpit.  But, as always
these are JMO.

Larry Zink
Z Group Racing and Performance
Houston, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: <vitesse@juno.com>
To: <msecrest@erols.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 1998 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: TR6: Fun w/oil gauge feed


>
>Hi Martin,
>
>Reference your broken plastic line...I tried to replace the plastic line
>on the barbed fitting when mine broke after a rebuild in '73.  I also was
>not able to get it to go back on.
>
>I replace it with copper.  I got all the parts I needed from a plumbing
>supply house, ( that was long before there was a Home Depot ).  You can
>get all parts necessary at the Depot or similar type place.   I have
>since put this type arrangement on all Triumphs I've gotten, whether I
>noticed a problem or not. It will cost you a few points in concours, a
>few dollars, and a couple of hours....it will save you having to clean
>the engine bay, driveway, or worse base scenario..the interior if the
>line breaks inside the car....been there....done that....and that oil is
>HOT on your leg!
>
>A few things I've leaned though.....At first I came out of the block with
>an elbow, and went straight through the firewall and to the gauge.  This
>lasted a few years but over time with the block movement on the motor
>mounts, the copper line broke at the block.  I remember seeing some old
>car with the copper line in a coil coming off the block.  I did that, 2
>or 3 coils to allow for movement and I also put a fitting at the point
>where it goes through the block to make sure it doesn't chaff.  I have
>had that on my 250 since '84 and have not had a problem since.
>
>Hope this helps
>
>Hugh R. McAleer
>Jonesboro, GA
>
>



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