Gary,
If you are going to the trouble of pulling the piston and honing the
cylinder, be sure to measure the cylinder for roundness, possible taper
and size. If there is no evidence of excess wear in those respects, the
size of the cylinder will dictate the size ring you need. It's possible
that your engine has been rebuilt before and has oversized pistons.
These are usually marked on top but may not be. So count on the
measurement as your best indicator.
However, If you encounter any of the possible measurements that are
outside of reasonable tolerance, you may as well get ready to do a
"proper" overhaul, since you have it torn down this far.
Good luck,
JOe Curry
Gbouff@aol.com wrote:
>
> The euphoria experienced on the engine start up was short lived. Upon pulling
> the head, I found the following problems. # 4 cylinder is sucking the exhaust
> valve, and #3 shows some green corrosion on the piston side of the head gasket
> which probably accounts for the lower compression in that cylinder. In for a
> penny in for a pound, I guess that I' ll do a complete head rebuild due the
> the above problems.
>
> However the real disappointment is a significant vertical score mark on #2
> cylinder, about .005-.008 deep and probably due to a ring sticking. Because
> of this, I was thinking about pulling the pistons and breaking the glaze and
> then honing the cylinder walls. Has anyone done this, and if so, what size
> rings do I buy?
>
> The one good thing is that there is less than .006 thrust end play in the
> crank shaft and no detectable play on the mains and journals.
>
> Well, it was a good feeling while it lasted.
>
> Gary Bouffard
> TS 58399
--
"If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
-- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
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