Robert Klips wrote:
>
> 1) Paint fenders, doors, etc. on the car or off the car? I think off
> because it will ensure all surfaces get covered. Body guy thinks that
> reassembly without scratching is very difficult and suggests first
> assembling the car so that everything fits, then painting it. Would that work?
I painted them off the car, and scratched them up remounting them. But
since toy have to remove the stainless trim before you paint, you'll
probably scratch it up remounting it anyway, unless you get some extra
help.
> 2) The body putty he proposes will not be to fill in major areas but just
> to smooth out spots. Is that OK?
Putty is really just thick paint. It's fine to use.
>
> 3) The color, British Racing Green, ...how can I make sure I get an
> "official" Triumph color? Do I need to buy a can of paint from Moss Motors,
> spray once on a sheet of paper, and have the body guy match it? Or is there
> some code the paint supplier can follow?
I just picked an easily available green paint, Brooklands Green. Other
colors refered to as British Racing Green were too dark for my taste.
>
> 4) Base coat/clear coat...this is a modern paint type. Is it improperly
> inauthentic to use this type paint? And will it end up too darned shiny? Is
> there a way to control glossiness of finish and should I try to steer him
> one way or another?
>
> ..Overall I'm trying to acheive a result that, while not necessarily
> proze-winning, will not have to be re-done later.
>
Base coat clear coat will last much longer than an "authentic" paint
job. I used acrylic enamel, just becasue it didn't require a special
breathing system when spraying.
Good luck!
--
George Richardson
The Wyvern - '57 TR3, TS15559L - Now on the road!
http://www.merlingroupinc.com/tr3.htm
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