Pete & Aprille Chadwell wrote:
> I have always understood to use the center hole on the drop-arm. That's
> where the pin is now. I suppose moving the pin up would move the TO
> bearing further, but I've always been reluctant to try stuff like that
> because I'm not certain of what the "side effects" might be. Namely, more
> stress (because of the decreased leverage at the drop-arm) on an already
> marginal hydraulic system. It would also mean a stiffer pedal.
>
> The cross-shaft appears to be nearly vertical if not perfectly vertical
> while at rest. And yes, it does appear to move approximately 5/8."
>
> The pedal stop does appear to be striking the lip of the pedalbox as normal.
>
> The flywheel WAS resurfaced this time, and it has been resurfaced probably
> twice BEFORE in the nearly 13 years I've owned the car. So, I'd say that
> that is likely to be a significant contributing factor.
>
> The slave is mounted correctly on the backside of the plate.
>
> If I removed the slave cylinder pushrod and fabricated a new pushrod that
> was at the most 1/8" longer than the OEM pushrod, would that not move the
> TO bearing closer to the flywheel? The downside might be that since the
> release fork would begin its motion from a different angle, it would also
> END its motion at the different angle, and that may end up being too great
> an angle and, well, as an exaggeration, the fork might just fall right out
> of the sleeve! (or something like that... I can see that there could be a
> cost to altering the geometry of the fork when at rest.)
>
> I really do not feel like taking it all apart again, and I CERTAINLY do not
> feel like buying a new flywheel!!
>
> BTW, thanks to Brian at Power British Performance for the recommendations
> on making the new fork retaining pin!!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Pete Chadwell
> 1973 TR6
Pete,
>From what you describe above, it sounds to me like the flywheel is the likely
>culprit
having be resurfaced so many times. Check to see if you can move the lever to
the
rear by hand. If you can, then the throwout bearing is not riding close enough
to the
pressure plate. If this is the case, then you can space the slave closer to
the lever
by installing jam nuts under the slave at the mounting plate and using longer
bolts.
If the lever will not readily move rearward by hand, (normally it should move
forward
about 3/8", but not rearward when at rest) then the throwout is up against the
pressure plate where it should be and there is probably insufficient
volume/travel in
the master cylinder to work properly. It is safe to experiment with the pin,
but your
assumptions about pedal effort are correct, it will be stiffer. The
throwout/sleeve
will not disengage off the fork until the extension of the lever is greater
than 2"
back from vertical, so that is not a concern.
Please let me know outcome of above tests. I can offer some more suggestions
where to
go next without pulling the gearbox.
Regards,
Brian Schlorff '61 TR-4 '64 TR-4 '72 TR-6 '79 Spit
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