You wrote:
>>Pete,
>>
>>What hole are you using for clevis/cross-shaft? See if moving the pin
>>makes a
>>difference. Is the cross-shaft lever perfectly vertical when at rest and
>>then moves
>>back about 5/8" when pedal is fully depressed? Is the pedal stop
>>contacting the lip
>>of the pedal box, or is it hanging up somewhere? Did you have the
>>flywheel refaced?
>>I've seen flywheels where over 1/8" was whittled away from the face -
>>thereby moving
>>the clutch pressure plate further away from the throwout bearing. Check
>>that you have
>>the slave cylinder mounted on the back side of the bracket and not the
>>front. Sorry
>>for so many questions, but your problem is in there somewhere!!!
I have always understood to use the center hole on the drop-arm. That's
where the pin is now. I suppose moving the pin up would move the TO
bearing further, but I've always been reluctant to try stuff like that
because I'm not certain of what the "side effects" might be. Namely, more
stress (because of the decreased leverage at the drop-arm) on an already
marginal hydraulic system. It would also mean a stiffer pedal.
The cross-shaft appears to be nearly vertical if not perfectly vertical
while at rest. And yes, it does appear to move approximately 5/8."
The pedal stop does appear to be striking the lip of the pedalbox as normal.
The flywheel WAS resurfaced this time, and it has been resurfaced probably
twice BEFORE in the nearly 13 years I've owned the car. So, I'd say that
that is likely to be a significant contributing factor.
The slave is mounted correctly on the backside of the plate.
If I removed the slave cylinder pushrod and fabricated a new pushrod that
was at the most 1/8" longer than the OEM pushrod, would that not move the
TO bearing closer to the flywheel? The downside might be that since the
release fork would begin its motion from a different angle, it would also
END its motion at the different angle, and that may end up being too great
an angle and, well, as an exaggeration, the fork might just fall right out
of the sleeve! (or something like that... I can see that there could be a
cost to altering the geometry of the fork when at rest.)
I really do not feel like taking it all apart again, and I CERTAINLY do not
feel like buying a new flywheel!!
BTW, thanks to Brian at Power British Performance for the recommendations
on making the new fork retaining pin!!
Thanks!
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
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