Listers,
I have my engine stripped down to the bare block and will be putting
it back together
after holiday commitments are over so that I have time to do a thorough job.
I have a few questions
based on what I am trying to accomplish for the rebuild. I am looking for
some horsepower improvements
for a car the will be street driven and autocrossed occasionally. The car is
a '71 with orignal block and head.
I am going to have a valve job done on the head with new guides and seats
for unleaded fuel. While the head is
at the machine shop I am also planning on having .060" shaved off to bump
the compression ratio up (by my rough
calculations this should yield 9.5:1). Based on this and my intended use of
the car I have a couple of questions:
1. Camshaft - Does any one have a recomendation for a mild cam (~.390 - .405
lift) for this type of use? I see where
BPNW has a "street cam" for $96 exchange, Richard Good shows a GP3 cam for
around $165 (is this new or a regrind?),
the Kastner book lists an S2 cam which I think is still available as well
(Triumphtune? still waiting on my catalog). Any thoughts?
I am aware of the Triumph 2000 tuning site and have read over it, I was more
interested in getting a feel from people who
have done this. I don't mind a slightly lumpy idle as long as the car still
runs ok at low speeds. Also what will I have to do
about push rods? I assume stock length will be bad (given the stock .330
lift and a shorter cylinder head), will the shorter
tubular rods work without cutting them down?
2. Oil pump pickup - I have the old-style cast iron slanted pickup (original
I suppose). I assume the newer style pickup
will bolt to my block without modifications? Is oil starvation a big problem
in these cars for just autocrossing (I know
what Kastner says about this but I am thinking this is more of a road racing
issue)? I will be replacing the pump
internals but I wasn't planning on replacing the pickup unless it is unwise
to not do so.
3. Clutch - The disc is slightly glazed but still has plenty of material
left on it. I am tempted to just replace it since I've got everything
apart, but I don't see the need to replace the pressure plate (Clutch
engagement/disengagement was fine and no slippage). I read in
Moss that there are 2 different manufacturers of clutchs and that they are
only available from them in sets. If this is true I will probably
just put the old clutch back in for this year and deal with it later. Any
advice here?
Thanks,
Brian Ricker
71 TR6 CC56818L
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