Tom,
Sounds like you're on the right track with replacing the fork and cross shaft.
Look
carefully at all the fork and clevis joints on the hydraulices - both at the
master and
at the slave. The wear in the forks and clevis pins account for a tremendous
amount of
lost motion in the clutch. Most often, the hole in the foot pedal wears
out-of-round
(egg-shaped) and all of this slop results in not enough "throw" in the master
cyl. to
push the slave far enough. If you can push the clutch pedal more than 1/2"
from its rest
position before you feel pressure this is your most likely culprit. Solution
is to
replace forks and clevis pins then remove pedal, weld up out-of-round hole and
redrill.
Good luck!!!
Regards,
Brian Schlorff
Power British
http://www.powerbritish.com/~britcars
Tpjk@aol.com wrote:
> Fellow listers,
> I have a recurring problem with the clutch in my TR6 that is getting
>worse. I
> have difficulty getting the trans. in reverse (grinding of gears). I recently
> had the trans. out to replace the release fork for the throw out bearing. The
> fork had cracked and was slipping on the shaft. I checked the thickness of the
> clutch disc and it seemed to be the same as a new disc. Did not replace it or
> the pressure plate at that time. Starting to regret it now!
>
> I've replaced the seals in the hydralic system. No visible leaks and
>good
> bleed job...I think! I remembre a posting several months ago that had a
> diagnostic protocol that involved the lenght of throw on the slave shaft. Can
> anyone remember the distances? Are there any other diagnostics I could
> perform to isolate the problem to the hydralic system or the mechanical parts
> ( throwout system or plates). I sure hope I am not looking at synchros in the
> trans!!!!
>
> Thanks ofr any advice.
>
> Tom
> 74 TR6
> tpjk@aol.com
>
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