If you folks are talking about brake discs, it is extremely bad practise
to replace single brake discs at a time. I guess probably you recommend
replacing the pads on the side you replace the disc as well? Apart from
that it will be difficult to get only one disc and any place with a good
reputation should not sell you a single disc.
If I confused matters, my humble appologies.
Gernot
> ----------
> From: Joe Curry[SMTP:spitlist@gte.net]
> Reply To: Joe Curry
> Sent: Monday, August 17, 1998 5:37 PM
> To: Hassan, Erkan
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Brakes
>
>
> Hassan, Erkan wrote:
>
> > 1. I assume it is normal for the rotor to rub on the pads a little
> as
> > the wheel turns without the brake being applied. Is this true? how
> > much rub is right, too much or too little??
>
> The pads should rest against the rotor with virtually no pressure.
> >
> > 2. Why has only one pad worn away? At times I would smell burning
> brakes but it > was inconsistent. Is this the sign of a frozed
> piston? If so, I do not have an > air compressor and the greese gun
> method seems awefully messy. Therefore, my > option would be to take
> the caliper to a shop and have them see if they can blow > air into
> the brake line fiting. this is how it should be done, right??
> >
> Your problem description sounds as if the piston is stuck in the
> caliper
> and not withdrawing properly. THis would mean a rebuild of that
> caliper.
>
> > 3. Are there any special tricks, precautions, or techniques in
> replacing
> > the rotor? Do both rotors have to be replaced, or just the bad one?
> The price
> > from TRF seems as though it would be cheaper than anything a shop
> can do. Besides, > with this nice groove, I'm not sure there is much
> they can do anyway. Does the > new rotor need any special
> preparation prior to installation?
>
> If the other is good, just replace the bad one. The only thing that
> you
> need to do before installing is make sure you remove any coatings that
> have been put on the rotor to keep it from rusting while on the shelf.
> >
> > 4. The replacement of the pads and shims seem pretty
> straightforward,
> > again any special techniques or issues the list can
> > recommend?
>
> Just follow the procedure in any of the repair manuals you have.
> >
> > 5. Any other words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
>
> "Drive Safely" 8^)
>
>
>
> Regards,
> Joe Curry
> --
> "If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
>
> -- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
>
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